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Schambeck V2A-CFK steel/carbon wing joiner

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Phill Tadman
Posts: 329
Joined: 18 Aug 2015, 20:38
Location: South Cambs

Schambeck V2A-CFK steel/carbon wing joiner

Post by Phill Tadman »

Hi all

Has anyone any experience of the Florian Schambeck V2A-CFK wing joiners?

They offer a good weight saving and be found in various diameters.

http://www.klapptriebwerk.de/produkte/z ... teckungen/

Thanks,

Phill
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john greenfield
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Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 07:52
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Re: Schambeck V2A-CFK steel/carbon wing joiner

Post by john greenfield »

Phill

The joiners you have seen on the Schambeck site are used all over Europe and are sold by several companies. they are very good and reliable. I have one on my big Paratech DG 1000 that I ballast up to 38kg for aerobatics and I have no worries about its ability to carry the loads.

AEB
AEB = Aeronautical Energiser Bunny (with thanks to CW)
Phill Tadman
Posts: 329
Joined: 18 Aug 2015, 20:38
Location: South Cambs

Re: Schambeck V2A-CFK steel/carbon wing joiner

Post by Phill Tadman »

Thanks John,

I'm going to order one from Schambeck along with some nice white propellers that are coming in soon.

Phill
John Mcnamara
Posts: 92
Joined: 19 Mar 2015, 15:43
Location: Leeds
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Re: Schambeck V2A-CFK steel/carbon wing joiner

Post by John Mcnamara »

I have made my own for several models. Works fine. The carbon does not need to be a really tight fit so that you have to knock it in (interference fit), but a reasonable sliding fit will do. Sand and clean up you carbon rod and keep it free of grease (including fingers!). As long as you wear a mask that is the easy bit. Now rip up some stips of emery cloth and use a dowel to roughen the inside of the tube. Yes, it takes age but do not skimp it. Clean up with strips of rag after ward. Finally rag dipped inacetone is good to remove any grease. Carefully apply release wax to the outside of the tube. Give it 3 coats and polish between.
You need to use a fairly thin epoxy. A laminating resin such as for wing finishing is fine, and you may find it works better if warmed a little.
Brush some resin onto the first three inches of the rod, and start to insert into the tube. A "dam" of resin will build up. Pull the rod out slightly twist it about to ensure good spread internally, and then brush the excess out and add more resin to cover another few inches.
I should have mentioned that the steel tube should be cut to length and the end dressed with a file to ensure that there are no burs to damage the carbon. Leave the carbon rod long. That will be cut off after the resin has set.
Continue the process until the rod is completely through the tube. You will have realised that you need a recepticle under to open end of the tube to catch the excess resin. Wipe off any excess with kitchen roll and set aside level to dry. Do not skimp on the resin. It is better to waste some than have dry spots inside.
John
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