Scale Soaring UK

Interesting Noel. The original Tartan twin carb faced forward. Have you made a new intake to turn it round ?

AEB

Never mind getting it off the ground, you'll never get it out of the car with all that engineering on board...

Hi Chris and John,
Chris...you keep telling me...but the only thing I can say is wait and see...
And " no ", I will not pass it on to you...
John, indeed the elbow I milled it out of a POM or Acetal kind of quality nylon.
In the early days you could order the carburetor elbow in 3 models,
front, downwards or back...
But since long these engines are not build any more in Italy.
When the creator retired they stopped building them I have been to the company...
Anyway John, not to difficult to make see enclosed the drawing.
It is drawn on mm paper so you have to measure... I used a round block, dia +/-60 mm.
Milled it square first...but you know how to do it.
Works fine, the engine can't reverse with the starter and the ignition on now...
hope this helps,

Noël

...the doors had been fitted, but now the scale springs for opening and closing are fitted too.
Good you have friend to help...The hot water inventing...
Noël

...more pictures how...

...With the doors open I installed an extra gliding stick at the mid door closing.
This hold the doors open like it should, scale view...

Noël

...had a problem with the post above with double pictures...Sorry...
Noël

Hi,
the servos are in place now too.
All electrical work is finished also as there is:
the ignition connection, the ignition switch, the landing gear switch, the receiver switch and led controls and the onboard starter switch.
All connections are also soldered and secured. I like the switches on the instrument panel so that is nice but work also.
Before all goes in the fuselage, this needs now the final hand and then all can be painted where it should.
See the result,
Noël

...and to secure the soldered leads, I did buy last year this little alu block.
The Green connectors fit in nicely.
The leads fit also, screw the two halves together and with the hot melt gun you just fill the chamber.
After cooling down, not long, you can open up the blocks and take the nicely covered and sealed connecter out.
This way you also have a much better grip to disconnect the M and F parts.
I also did buy a special stripping pliers, that fits all sorts of wires. Perfect too and no copper leads cut at all.
Both items helped me a lot solving the electricity arrangement in the model.
Noël

I use the same aluminium tool to mould the ends onto MPX connectors. Very simple to use and available in the UK from Bernie at esoaringgadgets.

Highly recommended for anyone who uses MPX plugs and sockets.

AEB