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SFS 31 Milan
- Noël Rumers
- Posts: 220
- Joined: 20 Mar 2015, 10:29
- Location: Hoboken Antwerp
Re: SFS 31 Milan
... the next day I did cut all to shape as close as I could before drilling out the foam. The tape was pulled out without too much effort.
A few cuts and grinding to make all fit to the speakers and their boxes.
The plastic on the inside was also removed and the fit was perfect!
The speakers got the wiring and in each box at the rear got a 13 mm hold to allow the air to move when the membrane goes back and forward...
20 W speakers will do I believe, but a test will tell me afterwards if that was enough...
The elbows also got a bit of paint and all was mounted with straps to the two bottom distance pieces of the motor.
A few cuts and grinding to make all fit to the speakers and their boxes.
The plastic on the inside was also removed and the fit was perfect!
The speakers got the wiring and in each box at the rear got a 13 mm hold to allow the air to move when the membrane goes back and forward...
20 W speakers will do I believe, but a test will tell me afterwards if that was enough...
The elbows also got a bit of paint and all was mounted with straps to the two bottom distance pieces of the motor.
Last edited by Noël Rumers on 06 Apr 2021, 00:31, edited 1 time in total.
- Noël Rumers
- Posts: 220
- Joined: 20 Mar 2015, 10:29
- Location: Hoboken Antwerp
Re: SFS 31 Milan
...once in place the rest of the electronics could be put in. I used Velcro tape to do this.
The wires where sorted so all is safe to fly the model now.
All fits very well under the cowl and yes I ran the motor with the sound of music...
The wires where sorted so all is safe to fly the model now.
All fits very well under the cowl and yes I ran the motor with the sound of music...
- Cliff Evans
- Posts: 1033
- Joined: 29 Dec 2019, 15:13
- Location: Bristol
- Contact:
Re: SFS 31 Milan
Another work.pf art Noel.
https://lasercutsailplanes.co.uk
https://patteaklegliders.co.uk
https://patteaklegliders.co.uk
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- Posts: 497
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 07:52
- Contact:
Re: SFS 31 Milan
Noel
Fantastic work with the sound system but I see it fills the air exit holes in the cowl completely. How are you going to get cooling air for the motor and speed controller out of the cowling?
AEB
Fantastic work with the sound system but I see it fills the air exit holes in the cowl completely. How are you going to get cooling air for the motor and speed controller out of the cowling?
AEB
AEB = Aeronautical Energiser Bunny (with thanks to CW)
- Noël Rumers
- Posts: 220
- Joined: 20 Mar 2015, 10:29
- Location: Hoboken Antwerp
Re: SFS 31 Milan
Hi Cliff and John,
Thanks!!!
The gap is not completely sealed off at the exhaust opening.
Also the real Milan or see the RF4 have at the bottom an opening where the hot air can get away.
This will also cool the motor battery down.
So I thought about these things too but the first test run of the motor with the Amps it drew out looks OK to me now. Further test will follow but then I need to do this in the open with the wings on.
At this very moment no painting weather at all, we have snow and hail...
I did run the motor with sound and the cowl on, I will try to upload the film later.
This has also shown that the motor is not to hot as well as the batteries...
I will however keep an eye on these things, you don't want to mess up...
In the end I always can add some vanes in to guide the air if necessary. But that means again extra work...
Thanks!!!
The gap is not completely sealed off at the exhaust opening.
Also the real Milan or see the RF4 have at the bottom an opening where the hot air can get away.
This will also cool the motor battery down.
So I thought about these things too but the first test run of the motor with the Amps it drew out looks OK to me now. Further test will follow but then I need to do this in the open with the wings on.
At this very moment no painting weather at all, we have snow and hail...
I did run the motor with sound and the cowl on, I will try to upload the film later.
This has also shown that the motor is not to hot as well as the batteries...
I will however keep an eye on these things, you don't want to mess up...
In the end I always can add some vanes in to guide the air if necessary. But that means again extra work...
- Attachments
- Noël Rumers
- Posts: 220
- Joined: 20 Mar 2015, 10:29
- Location: Hoboken Antwerp
Re: SFS 31 Milan
...with the sound system OK now the instrument panel was to be finished.
I had a good picture of the real instrument panel and that was the basic thing.
I turned flat disks in POM or turnable black nylon. I used Tec7 to glue a few parts in. Once cured this is a firm rubber substance and paintable!
With the printer I scaled the pictures of the instruments down to size. A clear tape when on them and a double sided tape at the back. The rest was scissors work and very small fingers...and some time!
I had a good picture of the real instrument panel and that was the basic thing.
I turned flat disks in POM or turnable black nylon. I used Tec7 to glue a few parts in. Once cured this is a firm rubber substance and paintable!
With the printer I scaled the pictures of the instruments down to size. A clear tape when on them and a double sided tape at the back. The rest was scissors work and very small fingers...and some time!
- Noël Rumers
- Posts: 220
- Joined: 20 Mar 2015, 10:29
- Location: Hoboken Antwerp
Re: SFS 31 Milan
...at the left hand side I did build in my receiver switch and the battery system control lamps.
Now the bottom of the instrument panel needs some work, but that will come soon.
And then that one instrument was a special one, not happy with the result now but still…
The rudder was also connected to the servo as well as the tail wheel. And with one screw can the removable rudder be taken off the fuselage for easy transport. The hole was drilled, 2 mm into the two blocks of ply either side of the rudder tug. Cliff Charlesworth way, I learned it from him.
Than drilled on side only with dia 4.3, taped with M5 just one block of ply. I put the fuselage ten on the side and put a few drops of Cyano glue in. Let it set into the ply and make sure all is hardened properly with kicker. Then I run the M5 tap again in the hole to clean it. After that the bold will grip in the hole without the change to turn lose without help. DO NOT OVERDO the tightening of the screw!!! When the wooden threat is turned/pulled out, you have a problem...
Now the bottom of the instrument panel needs some work, but that will come soon.
And then that one instrument was a special one, not happy with the result now but still…
The rudder was also connected to the servo as well as the tail wheel. And with one screw can the removable rudder be taken off the fuselage for easy transport. The hole was drilled, 2 mm into the two blocks of ply either side of the rudder tug. Cliff Charlesworth way, I learned it from him.
Than drilled on side only with dia 4.3, taped with M5 just one block of ply. I put the fuselage ten on the side and put a few drops of Cyano glue in. Let it set into the ply and make sure all is hardened properly with kicker. Then I run the M5 tap again in the hole to clean it. After that the bold will grip in the hole without the change to turn lose without help. DO NOT OVERDO the tightening of the screw!!! When the wooden threat is turned/pulled out, you have a problem...
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- Posts: 187
- Joined: 26 Dec 2018, 08:45
- Location: Hungary
Re: SFS 31 Milan
Stunning build Noël, superlative engineering and some very finely crafted details. I can learn a lot from reading this thread, even if I can't emulate your building skills!
- Noël Rumers
- Posts: 220
- Joined: 20 Mar 2015, 10:29
- Location: Hoboken Antwerp
Re: SFS 31 Milan
Hi Stephen,
You know, I learned a lot too by looking at work of other builders, and I still do!
The most important thing is to post these ideas so we all can learn.
Pictures are speaking here, so I like to post a lot Thanks that was able to help you forward!!!
Now the smallest part was to be made, the tail cover on top of the elevator, from the rear fuselage back up to the rudder LE.
Know that the guy how has not trouble with Corona or any other bug, had a helping hand in here too...
This means that I had to deal with extra work, but I am almost there now!
See what it should be in the end.
I covered the fuselage, elevator and rudder with some tape, the wrong one it seemed in the end...
On that tape no epoxy sticks to it, nor any other glue, so that was the OK bit.
A few layers of glass fibers with epoxy were put on first.
Later foam block where cut to shape and sanded and cut to fit.
I had to do this for both models so...
You know, I learned a lot too by looking at work of other builders, and I still do!
The most important thing is to post these ideas so we all can learn.
Pictures are speaking here, so I like to post a lot Thanks that was able to help you forward!!!
Now the smallest part was to be made, the tail cover on top of the elevator, from the rear fuselage back up to the rudder LE.
Know that the guy how has not trouble with Corona or any other bug, had a helping hand in here too...
This means that I had to deal with extra work, but I am almost there now!
See what it should be in the end.
I covered the fuselage, elevator and rudder with some tape, the wrong one it seemed in the end...
On that tape no epoxy sticks to it, nor any other glue, so that was the OK bit.
A few layers of glass fibers with epoxy were put on first.
Later foam block where cut to shape and sanded and cut to fit.
I had to do this for both models so...
- Noël Rumers
- Posts: 220
- Joined: 20 Mar 2015, 10:29
- Location: Hoboken Antwerp
Re: SFS 31 Milan
...with the shape done, more glass and epoxy went on to shape the cover.
That was the easy part...
The rudder is build on removable. That was a good thing.
I have taken all off with not too much trouble... But then the tape had to go...
It was on for a few days, and also in the sun... and that did it I think.
The plastic film came off but the glue stayed...
However, with what we call White Spirit, I was able to wash the glue rather easy.
The trouble was only on both fixed parts of the rudder.
These were covered with Solartex and while removing the rudder from the epoxy part or visa versa, on one side the fabric let go of the glue to iron it onto the wings etc..
This never had happened to me! I tried to iron it back on, heat it with a heat gun, nothing helped.
So I took all of the covering off again to start with new covering...
On the elevator all was OK after the glue was taken off.
Trimming of the covers was easy and the weight was only 31 grams in the end.
That was the easy part...
The rudder is build on removable. That was a good thing.
I have taken all off with not too much trouble... But then the tape had to go...
It was on for a few days, and also in the sun... and that did it I think.
The plastic film came off but the glue stayed...
However, with what we call White Spirit, I was able to wash the glue rather easy.
The trouble was only on both fixed parts of the rudder.
These were covered with Solartex and while removing the rudder from the epoxy part or visa versa, on one side the fabric let go of the glue to iron it onto the wings etc..
This never had happened to me! I tried to iron it back on, heat it with a heat gun, nothing helped.
So I took all of the covering off again to start with new covering...
On the elevator all was OK after the glue was taken off.
Trimming of the covers was easy and the weight was only 31 grams in the end.