Scale Soaring UK

spike spencer wrote:The bump in the top of the engine cowl on G-KORE was not present on G-AYRL. What do they have under there ?

Sandwiches.................



BC

Barry,
no sandwiches...could be worse though.
Indeed the starter due to change of engine.
And yes not all have it... On some the cowl was kept as long as the RF4 one with a little bump for the starter, not that good looking.
See a few others...
I had great help from Jed and Susy, the owners of the ( D ) now G-KORE and I will do this one.
It would however be much easier to do a plain cowl...
If you look closely to all variant, not one looks the same in the end...
See also the D-KIRL the former G-YARL with the original cowl and changed one...
Scale is scale however, it could be easier to make a look alike
And it could be worse too, looking to the N55...more like pizza oven
Noël

...see here the D-KORE with the old cowl as the D-KAEK and the starter motor on top of the engine.
Noël

Hi Noel
Thanks for the extra data. With the exception of the N55 modification, they are all elegant aeroplanes. I like that slitting saw on the Myford. Hadn't seen one of those before.
The D-KAEK photo shows just how little headroom there is under that canopy when a parachute pushes you forward in the seat.

Your Milan is an inspiring model of a much-loved prototype. Watching progress with great interest.

Hi Spike,
Indeed the saw is very handy and original Myford!
The owner of the G-KORE told me that although the back of the canopy was raised a bit, still not much clearance...
I managed to make a few bits again and finished the fuel filler cap.
The cowl will now back on, had to think and study a bit more on the shape to get it as close as possible scaled...
Noël

...and more...

Well I had a problem...
These are as always to be solved, always! The help came from Mick and Jim Reeves this time. Thank you both!!!
Due to no longer getting the parts for the retract servo, they have sold for a long time now, I had a problem.
Jim and Mick have given me a hint to another reduction geared motor. I did order two of these and received them two days ago.
Looked very well made, and it wouldn't be me, screws on the top of the gear box, I had to look inside...
I didn't take all apart due to, too small bits, shafts and gear wheels, I put it all back together.
I needed to know how the gear box was build up. I was happy with what I have seen. A worm gear combination to start with and after that a very solid gear wheel reduction. I knew from the past worm gear do have a lot of friction and it didn't work at the time. It was then that I bought the first M. Reeves servo motor, and that was OK. I think that was in 1989...this was a long time ago...I even think it was the old one...
With the gearbox in my hand, the design could be started how to get it into my Milan fuselage the second one...and I did promise Mick and Jim to keep them posted on the test I was going to do with it as soon I got it. Well this is what I did to have a nice fit in the fuselage.
See first the old gear box from Mick and the new one...
Noël

With the 4 hole M3, I was able to fix a base plate, hard alu 2 mm thick.
On this plate two switches are screwed to so the bold pushes the switch to stop the electric motor in the in and out position.
With this behind, the other two switches could be arranged as well. Due the retract servo on the SF27 B M up and go, I had one setup for the two other switches ready. I soldered off the wiring and drew up the wiring diagram. In the end I made two wirings on both the new reduction geared motors. One with the control switches behind the motor and on the other way. The last one, I will have to change due to not practical in the fuselage. On the diagram I also have noted the length of the wiring. ThisWith the 4 hole M3 I was able to fix a base plate, hard alu 2 mm thick.
On this plate two switches are screwed to so the bold pushes the switch to stop the electric motor in the in and out position.
With this behind, the other two switches could be arranged as well. Due the retract servo on the SF27 B M up and go, I had one setup for the two other switches ready. I soldered off the wiring and drew up the wiring diagram. In the end I made two wirings on both the new reduction geared motors. One with the control switches behind the motor and on the other way. The last one, I will have to change due to not practical in the fuselage. On the diagram I also have noted the length of the wiring. This worked for me on the one in my fuselage.
I did cit a 8 mm ply base to be glued into the fuselage. Screwed the alu 2 mm to the wood and fitted the pushing rod, M3 to length with a brass tube, could also be carbon tube, to the servo disk and the retract arm. No need for a spring to help the retract yet, and even after testing several times, no need for it at all...can be added later anyway...The cutout for the servo needs to be made and a 85 MG will go in to command the switches to run the retract in and out. The distance between the up and down position is 33mm on the servo disk, the arm on the retract wheel dictates this measure. I made sure that the wheel is locked properly in the in and out position.
For Q you always can ask and me PM me.
Noël

Hi Cliff,
Not done yet with the 1/3 scale...
see the film how the landing gear with servo is retracting under:



Noël

Preparing for the elevator now...
The ribs are cut and the mid elevator hinge point is made.
The cowl will be for next week now,
Noël