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M100S

Let us all watch your new project progress.
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terry white
Posts: 582
Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 21:08
Location: wareham,dorset.england

Re: M100S

Post by terry white »

Robbie, don't get into too much of a tis-was over those dam brakes,I hear Graupner or multiplex still have some they will sell you,and if you'r still looking to take a life I'm not coming any where near Shropshire for a couple of years. :lol: :lol:

Joking aside Lindy and I enjoyed all your guys company so much last year that we hope to attend both get togethers this year, so cook me a sausage for supper, medium rare. :lol: :lol: ter.

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RobbieB
Posts: 601
Joined: 07 Mar 2015, 22:22
Location: North West

Re: M100S

Post by RobbieB »

Wing tip block retaining plates.

Like the full size, the frise aileron outer hinge pivot is incorporated into this but unlike the full size this is obviously removable. Withdraw the two bolts, the tip block comes off and the aileron can then be removed should needs be.

Unlike the full size I will not be replicating the tip protectors with tie down holes as I got fed up with them getting ripped off my 200 during heather slope landings.

The plates to trim to size and balsa blocks to add.
end_plate_1.jpg
end_plate_2.jpg

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RobbieB
Posts: 601
Joined: 07 Mar 2015, 22:22
Location: North West

Re: M100S

Post by RobbieB »

top_sheeting.jpg
Top sheeting being added with the wing supported on its profile supports to retain the correct incidence. The wing needs all the supports shown to avoid any distortion as a consequence of the iron pressure during the hot PVA gluing process.
frise_hinge.jpg
Centre hinge for the frise ailerons - only three hinges on each aileron and all will be installed and pinned before the ailerons are cut from the wing.

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RobbieB
Posts: 601
Joined: 07 Mar 2015, 22:22
Location: North West

Re: M100S

Post by RobbieB »

Aileron hinges installed 2mm below the surface of the aileron and the aileron cut free.

I breathed a sigh of relief when the released surface moved freely throughout its travel.
aileron_hinge_2.jpg
In fact free enough to rotate almost 180 degrees down without binding.
aileron_hinge_3.jpg
Problem is, the whole assembly is designed to be held in position by the removable tips but unfortunately I have discovered in order to then slide the aileron out of the centre and inboard hinges, the aileron spar has to be cut away leaving little more than the fabric covering holding the two halves together. Not good. So, the centre and inboard hinges will have to be modified using removable pins (as per full size) and the centre hinge bracket also modified by reducing its depth considerably. Ah the joys of prototyping.

6mm balsa to be added to the LE of the aileron to be shaped to give a rolling clearance over its travel within the shroud.

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RobbieB
Posts: 601
Joined: 07 Mar 2015, 22:22
Location: North West

Re: M100S

Post by RobbieB »

The frise aileron with its leading edge applied - difficult to get the correct rolling clearance over the whole travel.

The gap underneath really opens up on the down going side and the hinge geometry is set almost identical to the full size.
aileron_le.jpg
The leading edge profile.
aileron_le_2.jpg

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RobbieB
Posts: 601
Joined: 07 Mar 2015, 22:22
Location: North West

Re: M100S

Post by RobbieB »

Ah, another Phoenix rises from the ashes (as does the balsa dust).

Profiling the aileron leading edge shrouds on the right wing - what a faff. The profile is not a straight radius, it changes top to bottom and has to be identical in both wings as the gap at the underside changes depending upon the ailerons position so it's got to be right in both wings.

frise_shroud_rw.JPG

To further complicate matters, you will see from the photos below the gap increases from root to tip. Anyone any ideas as to why?

mesange4.JPG
mesange 7.JPG

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RobbieB
Posts: 601
Joined: 07 Mar 2015, 22:22
Location: North West

Re: M100S

Post by RobbieB »

.................and they won't be like that on the model Cliff because to my eternal shame I have only recently noticed that. Everything is now set in stone and isn't going to be changed.

I suppose I will just have to come to terms with the night terrors and bed wetting, waiting for the Scale Police to get on my case.

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chris williams
Posts: 1203
Joined: 10 Mar 2015, 10:50
Location: Blandford Dorset

Re: M100S

Post by chris williams »

I suppose I will just have to come to terms with the night terrors and bed wetting, waiting for the Scale Police to get on my case.

Might as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb, Robbie...paint a fake moustache on the front then sit back a wait for the explosion!

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Barry_Cole
Posts: 1413
Joined: 10 Mar 2015, 09:30
Location: Hampshire UK

Re: M100S

Post by Barry_Cole »

Don't you have an I-CROZ to fix????

:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

BC

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RobbieB
Posts: 601
Joined: 07 Mar 2015, 22:22
Location: North West

Re: M100S

Post by RobbieB »

I have been thinking about how to go about the aileron pushrod shrouds on the 100 which are almost certainly glass on the full size:

Carmam-M100-59.JPG

To make such a thin thin walled shroud I opted to do the same. Unfortunately when I opened my bottles of epoxy laminating resin the catalyst was a most definitely 'off' colour.

So, make the plug out of balsa - too small and fiddly to use foam:


shroud_plug.jpg

Pull a small piece of light glass cloth over the plug as normal:

shroud_cloth.jpg

Soak with watery cyno:

shroud_cyno.jpg

Trim off and repeat with second layer and then remove the balsa plug with the Dremel leaving a nice, thin walled, flexible but strong shroud:

shroud_hollow.jpg

That one is a bit rough as it was the first experiment.

The big advantage here is, it's very quick and you don't have the inconvenience of mixing up the epoxy resin or trying to keep the glass cloth in contact with the very small plug while it cures.

I think the real secret of success here is knowing when to put the Dremel down and finish hollowing out with sandpaper.

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