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Fauvel AV48
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 18:53
- Location: Mitcheldean
Fauvel AV48
Hi everyone,
Thought I'd start a thread to detail the progress on my AV48 from the Vic Steele plan and Sarik Hobbies short kit. I started it at the beginning of the year in our Newent and District MAC clubroom, birthplace of the T21 that Frank, Roger and Andy built a few years ago and also the IS-5 canard.
It features an unusual building method, with formers being spaced along top and bottom keel pieces and 1/4 square stringers added to create the initial shape. It's then infilled with 1/4 balsa, sanded and glass clothed.
I'm about three quarters of the way through the infill process at the moment, progress is steady but as we only attend the clubroom two nights a week for a couple of hours, it's not a quick build!
Thought I'd start a thread to detail the progress on my AV48 from the Vic Steele plan and Sarik Hobbies short kit. I started it at the beginning of the year in our Newent and District MAC clubroom, birthplace of the T21 that Frank, Roger and Andy built a few years ago and also the IS-5 canard.
It features an unusual building method, with formers being spaced along top and bottom keel pieces and 1/4 square stringers added to create the initial shape. It's then infilled with 1/4 balsa, sanded and glass clothed.
I'm about three quarters of the way through the infill process at the moment, progress is steady but as we only attend the clubroom two nights a week for a couple of hours, it's not a quick build!
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 18:53
- Location: Mitcheldean
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 18:53
- Location: Mitcheldean
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 18:53
- Location: Mitcheldean
Re: Fauvel AV48
Infill process on the fuz finished, the small area at the rear will be done with blue foam. Brought it home from the clubroom to begin the sanding, starting to build the fins next.
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 18:53
- Location: Mitcheldean
Re: Fauvel AV48
Building the fins and rudder assemblies to a point where they can be used to figure out attachment points to the inner wing panels, which I'll start next.
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 18:53
- Location: Mitcheldean
Re: Fauvel AV48
Nice session in the clubroom tonight. First of the outer panel box spars in it's jig, next session will be installing the incidence tube.
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 18:53
- Location: Mitcheldean
Re: Fauvel AV48
Spars are nearly complete, one more to skin and one to make complete, then I can really get to grips with the wing assembly.
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 18:53
- Location: Mitcheldean
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 18:53
- Location: Mitcheldean
Re: Fauvel AV48
So. What I thought would be a straightforward method to assemble the wing,( no clue on the drawing as to how the prototype was built), proved a non starter!
Once the ribs were glued vertically to the main spar, the trailing edge was nowhere near straight.
New plan is to pin the ribs to the board along their goat portion, glue in the upper rear spar to jig them up and then add the main spar. Looks better at the moment, but won't really know until I can lift a complete frame off the board.
Once the ribs were glued vertically to the main spar, the trailing edge was nowhere near straight.
New plan is to pin the ribs to the board along their goat portion, glue in the upper rear spar to jig them up and then add the main spar. Looks better at the moment, but won't really know until I can lift a complete frame off the board.
- RobbieB
- Posts: 547
- Joined: 07 Mar 2015, 22:22
- Location: North West
Re: Fauvel AV48
Sean, to build the wing onto a built up spar is a perfectly acceptable way to do it - the way most full size wooden wings were built; but it has to be done correctly or you will end up with a wavy wing as you have done. You cannot rely on the mating faces of the ribs all being correct, even laser cut ply. Even a very small difference in angle there will result in a significant change at the trailing edge.
The correct way is to add the root rib followed by the last rib before any change in wing taper and/or start of change in section. You then need to add a thread datum stretched between the two and this acts as the reference for all the other ribs in between - it is very accurate. You will, of course, probably have to modify the front mating face of many, if not all of the other ribs so as to locate them accurately. I do this by carefully wiping them across a piece of sandpaper until they locate - most only requiring one or two wipes, in balsa, anyway.
You then do the same with the remaining ribs out to the tip.
The leading edge ribs are done in a similar fashion, the only difference here is you leave the spruce false LE cut-out in place with a central line marked on it as the guide for cotton thread. Once all the LE ribs and sub ribs are in place these can be removed and the false spruce LE added before the spar is turned over.
Both LE and TE ribs are held in position when ready and secured with a drop of watery cyno - instant adhesion (as are the fingers on occasions!)
The correct way is to add the root rib followed by the last rib before any change in wing taper and/or start of change in section. You then need to add a thread datum stretched between the two and this acts as the reference for all the other ribs in between - it is very accurate. You will, of course, probably have to modify the front mating face of many, if not all of the other ribs so as to locate them accurately. I do this by carefully wiping them across a piece of sandpaper until they locate - most only requiring one or two wipes, in balsa, anyway.
You then do the same with the remaining ribs out to the tip.
The leading edge ribs are done in a similar fashion, the only difference here is you leave the spruce false LE cut-out in place with a central line marked on it as the guide for cotton thread. Once all the LE ribs and sub ribs are in place these can be removed and the false spruce LE added before the spar is turned over.
Both LE and TE ribs are held in position when ready and secured with a drop of watery cyno - instant adhesion (as are the fingers on occasions!)