will resume on this new forum.
Thank you Vince for all you have done.And greetings to our new officials ,if that's the right word.
Look forward to postings by the world of modellers ,Australia ,South Africa ,and of course the colder climates North of Scotland
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 29 Mar 2015, 10:47
by Geoff Pearce
Not much to report, but I am still sticking bits on.
Pics when worth looking at.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 30 Mar 2015, 15:55
by Geoff Pearce
hope these pics come out OK
Method:- putting super glue on first on the part which glues to the bottom in 3 or 4 dots
with gorilla glue between, put in place held with drawing pins, the gorilla glue the rest and
work the pieces into shape and fix.
All covering made with paper or card templates.
A tip given to me by MartinG, when cutting the ply with scissors make the cutting edge a bit
rough by pulling a sanding block over, it then grips and cuts better, a its like a puffins beak.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 30 Mar 2015, 21:34
by Simon WS
Looking good to me Geoff - but then, what do I know?!
Si
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 30 Mar 2015, 21:51
by Geoff Pearce
Swarrans wrote:Looking good to me Geoff - but then, what do I know?!
Si
A Lot more than me! Thanks Si
Geoff
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 08 Apr 2015, 13:20
by Geoff Pearce
Putting the tricky sheets on the nose.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 08 Apr 2015, 17:38
by Geoff Pearce
Geoff Pearce wrote:Putting the tricky sheets on the nose.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 08 Apr 2015, 17:42
by Geoff Pearce
Geoff Pearce wrote:Putting the tricky sheets on the nose.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 09 Apr 2015, 04:06
by Tom Pack
Very nice......I also see you are using Gorilla White Glue........ best glue I've found yet!
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 09 Apr 2015, 13:56
by Geoff Pearce
Tom Pack wrote:Very nice......I also see you are using Gorilla White Glue........ best glue I've found yet!
Thanks Tom, it does stick well and a useful gap filler if it's not quite right.
GP
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 11 Apr 2015, 16:31
by Geoff Pearce
Just had LMA check the build , 20kg scheme, passed with flying colours (excuse the pun) Lots more to do.
On with the next part of covering
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 13 Apr 2015, 09:10
by john greenfield
Keep at it Geoff, its looking good.
Will it be ready for Cheddar
AEB
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 13 Apr 2015, 13:37
by VinceC
Don't worry about your fuselage skin joints. See the real thing in this photo
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 13 Apr 2015, 20:45
by Geoff Pearce
john greenfield wrote:Keep at it Geoff, its looking good.
and the Polish aeroclub logo used on the tail. I have it in higher resolution if you need it.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 14 Apr 2015, 23:06
by Geoff Pearce
Thanks Vince
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 23 May 2015, 18:18
by Geoff Pearce
Danny Robertson wrote:Hi all,
I'm glad I found this thread, I've just had these plans printed and am about to start preparing for the cutting of my "kit" in the coming days. If there are any little tips or tricks that I should be aware of, I'm all ears.
Danny
This is the biggest project I have done, so I would suggest a good cut from plans, a friend cut mine on CNC I think better than laser,cleaner cut.
Thanks to Martin
Ply from Avonply Bristol, good prices
Good luck
Geoff
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 26 May 2015, 14:28
by john greenfield
Danny
If you have any issues or questions during the build please post them on this site and I will try to answer them for you. Alternitavly you can contact me direct on 01923 857009 or jgreenfi (at)hotmail.co.uk
John Greenfield
Orlik designer.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 31 May 2015, 15:34
by Geoff Pearce
A bit more done see pics
Rudder and tow release servos in place
Nose shaped,rudder fin done now making rudder , it's big
Cut out on Martins cutter ,
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 11 Jun 2015, 21:41
by Geoff Pearce
Started back on the Orlic, got fed up trying to get closed loop materials from model shops, so I went to the fishing tackle shop and guess what , they had everything I wanted at a reasonable price.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 12 Jun 2015, 08:29
by VinceC
That is where I get mine from, but make sure you have swivel in the line
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 12 Jun 2015, 09:51
by Barry_Cole
I may have said this before...
These are good. Non stretch. Non conductive. Build the tubes in as you go.
Not bad for £12.60 , three d print head and hands To follow
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 30 Aug 2015, 20:13
by Geoff Pearce
Doing a bit more on the back end,elevator and rudder, when done will take pics.
Also had head 3D scanned for pilot figure! Me?
GP
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 30 Aug 2015, 20:49
by roo Hawkins
Hi Geoff is it handsome like you
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 06 Sep 2015, 20:47
by Geoff Pearce
Roo,
You been drinking that Coalville punch again?
I have been putting together the tail plane and rudder assemble picks soon if it works out
Geoff
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 16 Oct 2015, 18:43
by Geoff Pearce
1/2 scale head and hands just arrived in the post pics soon
GP
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 17 Oct 2015, 05:52
by Pat Marsden
I guess Geoffs pilot had been standing a little to close to the windsock
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 17 Oct 2015, 14:32
by Geoff Pearce
Pat Marsden wrote:I guess Geoffs pilot had been standing a little to close to the windsock
Or to close to low flying tug pilots?
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Oct 2015, 10:27
by Geoff Pearce
Ok. This could be a bit scary to the faint hearted.
My 46% pilot total cost £66
Needs painting
Geoff
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Oct 2015, 11:42
by Pat Marsden
Thats politically correct of you Geoff to put a dwarf in the driving seat
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Oct 2015, 12:22
by roo Hawkins
Hi Geoff it's not Halloween yet you look a bit pale was it your flying . will look good when paint added. Must meet up next year some time and fly are new projects . ROO
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Oct 2015, 12:26
by roo Hawkins
Sorry Geoff I can not resist this but is that the final hand position
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Oct 2015, 16:58
by Geoff Pearce
roo Hawkins wrote:Sorry Geoff I can not resist this but is that the final hand position
Hi Roo, don't judge us southerners with the north of Gloucester lads!
They might get some sticks in them soon
GP
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Apr 2016, 22:21
by Geoff Pearce
Now back Orlicin,previous pics on old thread .
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Apr 2016, 22:42
by Geoff Pearce
More pics.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Apr 2016, 22:46
by Geoff Pearce
Even more pics
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 21 Apr 2016, 21:43
by Geoff Pearce
Been working on the tail section,rudder and elevators,and shaping the fuse to make a solid base to screw down to.
The last picture could be a bit scary. 46% 3D me.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 21 Apr 2016, 21:48
by terry white
Not as scary as the real thing though Geoff.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 22 Apr 2016, 06:07
by Simon WS
The pilot is great Geoff - who did it for you?
Si
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 22 Apr 2016, 16:07
by Geoff Pearce
Simon WS wrote:The pilot is great Geoff - who did it for you?
Si
Hi Simon,3D printing by Scale Me Down, they have a website run by Mathew and Gwen Appleton.
Very nice people to deal with, he also flys full size, airliners
Cloths 1year old babies and filled. Cost me £16.80
Geoff
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 22 Apr 2016, 18:47
by Tonyh
Hope he`s a better pilot than the full size
T.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 22 Apr 2016, 20:41
by Geoff Pearce
Tonyh wrote:Hope he`s a better pilot than the full size
T.
Could be, you little tugger!
G
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 28 Apr 2016, 22:37
by Geoff Pearce
Just arrived tonight, custom made hinges to my design cut out by Martin G,
Also a massive scale servo from hi-tec range for the rudder, 24kg at 6 volts, pics soon.
G
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 30 Apr 2016, 17:28
by Geoff Pearce
Pics of hinges and servo
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 31 Jul 2016, 13:19
by Geoff Pearce
Fitted rudder servo in body, hinges set up ready to glue in place, one rod demountablt rudder.
Guide for loop wires
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 31 Jul 2016, 14:04
by VinceC
I am interested in your demountable rudder. Please tell me more
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 31 Jul 2016, 14:17
by Barry_Cole
It's simple, like most rudders. If you hit it hard enough, it comes off.....
(Note to self. Get out more...)
BC
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 31 Jul 2016, 19:11
by Geoff Pearce
VinceC wrote:I am interested in your demountable rudder. Please tell me more
Vince, I had some hinges made by Martin G cut bye his router out of circuit board material.
5 pieces put together , 3and2 with holes drilled in for fixing and the hinge hole which will take a 2mm bar , threaded up from the bottom, I have to fix a stop to stop bar from dropping out. ( normally fed in from the top so gravity stops it falling out see pics
Geoff
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 31 Jul 2016, 20:57
by VinceC
OK - thanks
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 01 Aug 2016, 08:41
by Martin G
Vince,
The rudder hinge pin runs through the centre of all the hinges and replaces the centre bolt on the attached photo.
The bolts are in the photo as the hinge parts have not yet been glued together.
Martin G.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 01 Aug 2016, 10:14
by VinceC
Oh, I see, it is a stacked hinge. Thanks
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 01 Aug 2016, 10:40
by Jilles
Very neat and skill full.
Is there a reason Robart hinges are not used ? The 3/16"size are very suitable for large scale. I am not a fan of PC board. It does not withstand bending that much and can break like glass.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 03 Aug 2016, 22:26
by Jolly Roger
Jilles wrote:Very neat and skill full.
Is there a reason Robart hinges are not used ? The 3/16"size are very suitable for large scale. I am not a fan of PC board. It does not withstand bending that much and can break like glass.
I agree PC board is quite brittle. I've just replaced some broken PC board rudder hinges with 3mm carbon fibre plate, although if I was starting from scratch I would use Robarts. The bit of flex in the plastic is ideal.
Another problem with composite plate hinges is that the hole does eventually wear with use. At least if you leave the copper on PC board you can soft-solder a short sleeve of brass tube through the hole to improve wear-resistance. I've done this as a repair and it works a treat. I stole the idea from when we used to make all-moving tailplane bellcranks from the stuff in the 80's and reinforce the join to the pivot tube with a fillet of solder.
Sorry - straying off topic. Loving the build Geoff.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 04 Aug 2016, 10:08
by RobbieB
.................like that.
Do that as standard - never had one break yet.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 14 Apr 2017, 18:05
by Geoff Pearce
I am now doing a bit more on the ORLIC , making a plug for the canopy.
I'm doing the red and white American one.
The plug is constructed with 3x2 timber with the grain vertical for strength , then covered in filler, making ready for two pack spray, done by a friend.
Pics to follow
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 14 Apr 2017, 18:21
by Barry_Cole
Geoff Pearce wrote:making ready for two pack spray, done by a friend.
Pics to follow
You have a friend who will spray two pack paint for you??, I wish I had a friend like that.
BC
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 15 Apr 2017, 13:06
by Geoff Pearce
Barry_Cole wrote:
Geoff Pearce wrote:making ready for two pack spray, done by a friend.
Pics to follow
You have a friend who will spray two pack paint for you??, I wish I had a friend like that.
BC
Never mind Barry, there's lots of us that like you, happy Easter
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 17 Dec 2017, 13:26
by roo Hawkins
hi geoff I wanted to ask about your wing joiner? it looks like a aluminium tube with carbon tube inside? what sort of aluminium and size is it? interested for a later project thanks ROO
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 17 Dec 2017, 13:46
by Geoff Pearce
Hi Roo,
Wing joiner aluminium tube about 32-38 MM. with carbon sailboard booms glued inside.
Just finished dry run fitting of rudder and elevators to check servos , so I can get this bit signed off , then I can finish covering the fuzz with ply.
G
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 20 Dec 2017, 22:45
by Geoff Pearce
MarkDev wrote: ↑20 Dec 2017, 19:28
How do the large model fin/rudder/stabiliser get 'signed off' Geoff?
See you in a week or two for more work.
M
I have an inspector from the LMA. To check the workmanship for the CAA to make sure it's airworthiness
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 22 Dec 2017, 20:48
by Geoff Pearce
MarkDev wrote: ↑22 Dec 2017, 19:46
What I was trying to get at was if all the pieces are inspected separately and are they tested in any way?
M
I think it's up to the examiner,
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 30 Dec 2017, 16:04
by Geoff Pearce
Good news, nearly finished ply covering on fuselage, LMA inspection went well finish fuse and get canopy pulled, then it's the wings
Painting comes later
G
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 04 Jan 2018, 10:21
by matt
Well done Geoff, looks like you will have your joinery indentures soon! Matt
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 13 Jan 2018, 16:27
by Geoff Pearce
First picture shows wiring for elevator servos, and 10mm plastic tubing for push pull rods inside for rudder .
Other three shows panels stuck to fuse. More to do
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 04 Feb 2018, 17:15
by Geoff Pearce
Busy weekend, thanks to Mark helping me to glass fuselage.
Resin, glass then peel ply all went well.
Also starting to finish the plug with resin and a colour additive before rubbing down
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 04 Feb 2018, 17:17
by Barry_Cole
What are you people trying to do to poor Brian, you will give the poor lad a nervous breakdown.
Look away Brian..
BC
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 04 Feb 2018, 17:42
by Geoff Pearce
Barry_Cole wrote: ↑04 Feb 2018, 17:17
What are you people trying to do to poor Brian, you will give the poor lad a nervous breakdown.
Look away Brian..
BC
I know, but we don't get snowed in down here, so he's plenty of time to clear up.
Any way have a look at Stephen Spittles gaff
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 05 Feb 2018, 09:49
by B Sharp
On you go Geoff, don't mind me. Apart from that you should see my workshop, its a bit of a tip at the moment.
Brian.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 05 Feb 2018, 09:51
by Barry_Cole
B Sharp wrote: ↑05 Feb 2018, 09:49
On you go Geoff, don't mind me. Apart from that you should see my workshop, its a bit of a tip at the moment.
Brian.
So put that pair of pliers away then Brian.....
BC
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 05 Feb 2018, 12:40
by Geoff Pearce
I think it's time we saw Barry's workshop ?
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 05 Feb 2018, 13:41
by Barry_Cole
Geoff Pearce wrote: ↑05 Feb 2018, 12:40
I think it's time we saw Barry's workshop ?
Geoff Pearce wrote: ↑05 Feb 2018, 12:40
I think it's time we saw Barry's workshop ?
Probably best not.....
BC
As I thought , things to hide Brian. :lo
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 06 Feb 2018, 21:48
by Martin G
Space on the floor is not a problem. Space in the roof is the issue in Geoff's workshop! It's a veritable Aladdins Cave.
I have to be careful not to bang my head when I visit.
Martin.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 11 Feb 2018, 11:37
by Geoff Pearce
This is for Barry.........
Look what I found!
A floor
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 11 Feb 2018, 14:39
by Barry_Cole
Geoff Pearce wrote: ↑11 Feb 2018, 11:37
This is for Barry.........
Look what I found!
A floor
Just the walls, benches, and ceiling to go then.
BC
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 11 Feb 2018, 15:46
by roo Hawkins
geoff you need a skip . ROO
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 11 Feb 2018, 19:01
by terry white
How many things can you see beginning with the letter-----'-S '
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 14 Feb 2018, 18:22
by Geoff Pearce
terry white wrote: ↑11 Feb 2018, 19:01
How many things can you see beginning with the letter-----'-S '
Ill start you off .....s..t. !
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Feb 2018, 15:32
by Geoff Pearce
Been busy making sure all the ribs fit the wing joiner and where the wings form the gull angle.I have also had like big washers made for extra support on ribs.
Also canopy plug still being rubbed down between jobs.
Nothing stuck yet, dry run only so far
Next job to get the timbers planed down to fit rib cut outs critical!
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Feb 2018, 17:14
by terry white
Looking good Geoff.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Feb 2018, 18:41
by Geoff Pearce
Andyfaz wrote: ↑18 Feb 2018, 18:11
Dear All,
First of all, thank you to everybody, this thread has been very helpful to complete my Orlik.
At present I am ready to apply a layer of fiberglass to the fuselage but I am very worried to add extra weight. I would appreciate a suggestion about the weight of the glass: 25g or 50g.
Any other suggestion would be very appreciated.
Regards
Andrea
Rome-Italy
Hi Andrea,
I've used .48g on my fuselage, Is yours 1/3rd scale? Because I have a 1/3rd k8 which is very heavy for its size, but it will fly in anything , especially light winds.
Best of luck
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 19 Feb 2018, 00:26
by terry white
Hi Andrea,
Although it is true that the heavier cloth will use more epoxy in its wetting out,It is also true that many modellers use far too much resin in the lay-up with the excess not taken off before its left to cure. After the glass has been whetted out showing the glass to have a transparent look any further resin will just add weight and do nothing else.
.25-.5 as required should be good I would have thought as''stress strength' is not required here.
As Mark has already said a little extra glass can be added where you would expect dings and hanger rash to occur .
Give the timber a quick coat of sanding sealer and let dry before you start This material air drys leaving a light coat of resin to the timber, sealing it against soaking up too much of the heavier epoxy resin coat. Also any migrating epoxy resin soaking into the timber leaves the glass looking dry and your instinct is to put on even more resin on to fill the weave.
only mix sufficient at one time to use easily in 10 mins. This will ensure that it will be still thin enough to soak into the glass weave and still be spreadable.The trick here is to have everything ready with the glass cut to size etc and work fast.
Finally take off any excess resin by carefully rolling a roll of kitchen towel over the whole of the work to soak up the excess,discarding the outer layer of toweling as it becomes soaked in resin.
The final finish should look slightly mat without shine .
Remember after the main coat has dried you can always touch up later if need be.
A final tip is that after an hour or so playing with first the epoxy ;then the hardener; then the mixing; It is more then possible to forget which container is mixed and which isn't ( many a wing has been spoilt by a model maker thinking the hardener had been added when it hadn't. So I add a little food coloring into the harder before I start. Not much a little goes a long way so be frugal with it. Now any pot that is not colored is unmixed resin and the pot that is brightly colored is unmixed hardener .But as daddy bear said the pot that has just a trace of colour is just right.
Hope this helps Terry.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 19 Feb 2018, 08:38
by john greenfield
Geoff's Orlik fuselage is covered in thin ply so there is no soaking up of the resin as there would be with balsa. Terry suggestions above are correct for a balsa sheeted fuselage but ply required a slightly different technique. As the ply is not really porous, an excess of resin will pool on the surface and then the cloth will float on the resin. When this is sanded back the cloth will be cut through just leaving the resin on the surface so providing no strength.
The Orlik does not need any additional strength (or weight) to the fuselage so I recommend 25g cloth just to give something to put a finish on. I apply the cloth with Falcon models Skin-crylic as it seems to draw the cloth down onto the ply better than resin or G4. Once dry I give a couple of coats of G4 and it is ready for primer.
AEB
1/2 scale Orlik designer
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 25 Feb 2018, 14:19
by Geoff Pearce
Just finished rubbing down the canopy plug, and set up a dry run of inner wing.
It all fits, got to plane down spars , then glueing together.
It feels very strong already
It's getting messy again
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 25 Feb 2018, 15:39
by Simon WS
I can't help feeling you need a bit more space Geoff!
Simon
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 25 Feb 2018, 16:11
by john greenfield
MarkDev wrote: ↑22 Feb 2018, 11:01
Geoff has finished glassing the fuse and taken the peel ply off, I suggested a 'sand coat' of epoxy and easy sand additive in places to help define the final shape and fair the lines.
M
Mark / Geoff
The Orlik did not have faired in joins between the ply sheeting on the fuz. It has pronounced "flats" at each panel location especially around the nose area. To keep it scale you need to replicate this and not "fair" it in.
Do a google search for Orlik and look at the pictures of the full size !!?
AEB
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 27 Feb 2018, 08:05
by john greenfield
MarkDev wrote: ↑26 Feb 2018, 16:38
Thats less work for Geoff then! Just as a matter of interest John, what thickness (was ply used in 1939?)was the original Orlic covering?
I think it was 1.5mm but may have been 2mm around the nose.
AEB
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 01 Apr 2018, 16:23
by Geoff Pearce
A bit more done, plug for canopy finished, started on wings.....
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 01 Apr 2018, 18:07
by Simon WS
Looking good Geoff - I may have to build a "woody" one day!...
Simon
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 01 Apr 2018, 18:20
by Geoff Pearce
Simon WS wrote: ↑01 Apr 2018, 18:07
Looking good Geoff - I may have to build a "woody" one day!...
Simon
Thanks Si, a whole new world , but for adrenaline you can't beat a mouldy.......
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 01 Apr 2018, 21:25
by terry white
Hi Geoff,Very pretty plug,no mistaking that.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 14 Apr 2018, 11:19
by Geoff Pearce
Just made bench to build 2.2m wing thing
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 14 Apr 2018, 13:04
by catwok
Crikey Geoff there's a lot of wash out on the tip rib!
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 14 Apr 2018, 21:35
by Geoff Pearce
MarkDev wrote: ↑14 Apr 2018, 17:17
Thats going to be a rather large pile of wood! How do you keep them ribs square?
See you in the week.
M
With a set square, 90'deg off spares
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 15 Apr 2018, 15:34
by Geoff Pearce
A bit more done.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 02 May 2018, 08:35
by VinceC
For interest, this guy is a serious model builder. In fact he is building a brand new full size Orlik to celebrate its' 100th Anniversary
Cliff Evans wrote: ↑02 May 2018, 08:37
Before anybody asks, I cannot cut that one!
Should have read "will not"
Now you know want to really?
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 04 May 2018, 04:06
by Tom Pack
It’s just a matter of scale!
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 15:45
by Geoff Pearce
Back to building, trial fit of the wings, pleased with the fit, ready to fit incidence pins ,then make the flaps and ailerons.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 16:01
by Barry_Cole
Don't look Brian.....
BC
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 16:35
by B Sharp
I Looked!
Don't worry Geoff I can save you. There's a large pan and brush in the post and the skip lorry will arrive tomorrow morning!
Brian
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 16:57
by roo Hawkins
Looking good mate
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 16:59
by Geoff Pearce
B Sharp wrote: ↑18 Dec 2018, 16:35
I Looked!
Don't worry Geoff I can save you. There's a large pan and brush in the post and the skip lorry will arrive tomorrow morning!
Brian
That's good for me Brian
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 19 Dec 2018, 08:11
by john greenfield
Looking good Geoff....but I can't see any cutouts for the airbrakes !!?
AEB
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 19 Dec 2018, 09:30
by Geoff Pearce
john greenfield wrote: ↑19 Dec 2018, 08:11
Looking good Geoff....but I can't see any cutouts for the airbrakes !!?
AEB
Thanks John,
No I haven't done the air brakes yet, I wanted to make sure it was a good fit,
I can now do the incidence pins and make a box for air brake servo, I have some hinges that also lifts the air brake off the surface as it lays on the top according to the pics that Vince sent me.
Oh by the way I've got three pot pot engines for you
G
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 19 Dec 2018, 11:41
by Geoff Pearce
Another bit done
Spreading the load
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 30 Dec 2018, 15:08
by Geoff Pearce
I'm just winging it?
Happy new year to all the balsa bashers
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 30 Dec 2018, 15:12
by Geoff Pearce
Just winging it!
Happy new year to all the balsa bashers .
Still messy Brian
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 30 Dec 2018, 16:10
by B Sharp
Don't worry about it Geoff - I'll do the tidy, you do the building.
Best wishes for the new year.
Brian.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 02 Jan 2019, 14:54
by Geoff Pearce
Brian your so kind, I will do breakfast!
A bit more done.b
Making box for spoilers/air brake
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 08 Jan 2019, 17:41
by Geoff Pearce
First fit of ailerons, still messy Brian,
Dustpan not arrived!
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 27 Jan 2019, 10:38
by Geoff Pearce
Another fine mess to clear up.
Dustpan and brush still in transit Brian?
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 27 Jan 2019, 15:45
by Peter Balcombe
Looks as if the tip section is a bit small
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 23 Feb 2019, 10:02
by Geoff Pearce
Covering ailerons and flap on one wing, using Balsaloc and Doatex
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 23 Feb 2019, 11:24
by MDev
Don't forget to put a block of hard balsa in for the control horns! I'll stick them in the post.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 26 Feb 2019, 09:35
by Geoff Pearce
Starting to lay up last wing construction
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 01 Apr 2019, 09:50
by Geoff Pearce
t
Managed to get the air brakes fitted and working, with thanks to Peter Balcombe for his time
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 06 Apr 2019, 19:02
by Barry_Cole
Posted on behalf of Geoff, who has been hard at work on the spoilers.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 04 May 2019, 16:48
by Geoff Pearce
Just fitted dry run of ailerons and flaps
t
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 08 May 2019, 17:06
by Geoff Pearce
Been working on the hinges of the ailerons and flaps, fitted dry run servos and anchilary bits and pieces.
All works ok.
Need to fit larger arms on servo for extra flap movement.
Picks to follow
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 24 May 2019, 15:22
by Geoff Pearce
Just putting wings together to insert incidence pins, it's big!
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 28 Aug 2019, 16:09
by Geoff Pearce
Workshop cleaned up ready to fit wings
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 31 Aug 2019, 17:44
by Geoff Pearce
Just fits in my shed
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 31 Aug 2019, 18:35
by MDev
Nice one!
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 22 Oct 2019, 18:43
by Geoff Pearce
All wings fitted electrics done and programmed
LMA inspection done, can now get on with covering
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 25 Oct 2019, 08:51
by SteveArchibald
She is a big bird, yet another one for the one day build list.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 26 Oct 2019, 12:47
by Geoff Pearce
Started covering wings ,
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 26 Oct 2019, 13:11
by Peter Balcombe
Don’t forget to feather the edges of the ply where they join Geoff.
Can’t see anything prepared but maybe you have a cunning plan
Peter
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 26 Oct 2019, 13:17
by Geoff Pearce
Peter Balcombe wrote: ↑26 Oct 2019, 13:11
Don’t forget to feather the edges of the ply where they join Geoff.
Can’t see anything prepared but maybe you have a cunning plan
Peter
Feathering done Peter,no cunning plan I'm afraid
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 02 Nov 2019, 13:37
by Geoff Pearce
One wing now covered
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 02 Nov 2019, 14:21
by Peter Balcombe
Looks good Geoff.
Keep up the good work
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 02 Nov 2019, 16:50
by Wayne
This is what I use, perfect for long life and strength.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 02 Nov 2019, 19:39
by MDev
Well done, very neat, covering next week? I’ll bring me old jeans! Square meter equals a cuppa tea.....
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 02 Nov 2019, 20:40
by Geoff Pearce
MDev wrote: ↑02 Nov 2019, 19:39
Well done, very neat, covering next week? I’ll bring me old jeans! Square meter equals a cuppa tea.....
1/2 cup then!
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 02 Nov 2019, 23:24
by Geoff Pearce
Ted wrote: ↑02 Nov 2019, 16:50
This is what I use, perfect for long life and strength.
Not seen that around here, thanks for input
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 11 Nov 2019, 10:33
by Geoff Pearce
A bit more planking done, going on quite good, I'm pleased with the Finnish so far
I'm using 1000 grade lining paper to make templates, it's like half way between paper and cardboard, and cheap
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 11 Nov 2019, 16:20
by roo Hawkins
Looking good mate.
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 12 Nov 2019, 17:21
by Geoff Pearce
Been working to complete outer 2.2mtr wing, and I have put some carbon rod in the wingtip to give it a bit more strength before I cover it with glass cloth
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 12 Nov 2019, 17:37
by Peter Balcombe
You are getting good at this Geoff
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 14 Nov 2019, 16:17
by Geoff Pearce
A bit more done, the wing tip now has carbon rod inserted for extra strength with Kevlar and carbon around the edge.
It will also have a bit of filler and shaped
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 15 Nov 2019, 08:13
by john greenfield
Geoff
Can I respectivly suggest you stop "beefing up" the structure as it does not need it and it only adds unnecessary weight. I can see from your recent pictures that you have added quite a few "chunky" gussets and braces in areas where they are not needed. I know they are only little pieces of wood, carbon etc but it all adds up to quite a bit on a model of this size. The design on the original plan is well tested and proven and plenty strong enough without additional structure (As anyone who saw me looping and aerobating mine at MW earlier this year will confirm).
Lighter models fly better.
Can I respectivly suggest you stop "beefing up" the structure as it does not need it and it only adds unnecessary weight. I can see from your recent pictures that you have added quite a few "chunky" gussets and braces in areas where they are not needed. I know they are only little pieces of wood, carbon etc but it all adds up to quite a bit on a model of this size. The design on the original plan is well tested and proven and plenty strong enough without additional structure (As anyone who saw me looping and aerobating mine at MW earlier this year will confirm).
Lighter models fly better.
Can I respectivly suggest you stop "beefing up" the structure as it does not need it and it only adds unnecessary weight. I can see from your recent pictures that you have added quite a few "chunky" gussets and braces in areas where they are not needed. I know they are only little pieces of wood, carbon etc but it all adds up to quite a bit on a model of this size. The design on the original plan is well tested and proven and plenty strong enough without additional structure (As anyone who saw me looping and aerobating mine at MW earlier this year will confirm).
Lighter models fly better.
AEB
Thanks for input John
I have now unbeefed the wings after talking to John, not got chunky gussets
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 15 Nov 2019, 21:31
by Martin G
Ooooh Errrr missus!
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 20 Nov 2019, 16:59
by Geoff Pearce
Just completed the ply work on the port wing, now tod the starboard wing
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 20 Dec 2019, 17:40
by Geoff Pearce
Starboard inner wing now ply covered, now to start outer, need more ply, B****r!
Re: ORLIC
Posted: 21 Feb 2020, 22:58
by MDev
The naked beast trying out its new lair, coming soon to a field near you..............)