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Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Let us all watch your new project progress.
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terry white
Posts: 566
Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 21:08
Location: wareham,dorset.england

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by terry white »

Hi Martin, You cant beat a glass finish for good all round strength and durability, especially if you are flying on the Mynd with all that heather farmed on the landing area. Thats like landing a full size in the forest. :lol:

Tell me was a glass membrane installed during the vac-bag process? If not then don't think twice, definitely glass them. :roll:

The Mark 1 Alpina used the Ritz 2 section to great appeal. A good all-rounder, thermal's well if given a chance. It went out of fashion in the 90s as it is not a particular fast section with its high camber. Speed between thermals was the in thing making way for the thinner sections. These such as the R.G 15s etc.could be flapped to create the camber needed for thermalling, or set clean or reflexes for speed.These are much more controllable sections for the present day machines.
However as I say the Ritz 3 section was well thought of and I would say ideal for the ASW 20.

See you and the model on the mynd shortly at the scale fly in. ;) Regards Terry.

Martin Church
Posts: 74
Joined: 06 Oct 2015, 11:23
Location: Somerset edge of Mendips

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Martin Church »

As far as I know they have a glass cloth skin under the veneer. Well I hope they do as it would have been rather daft to vac bag them if they didn't & not sure what benefit there is over epoxy as a bonding agent rather than latex?
No doubt someone may know the answer to that question.
Martin

ChrisGordon
Posts: 35
Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 13:20

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by ChrisGordon »

I recently bought a pair of the posh epoxied wings for my Vega and the guy at Cloud models said just Profilm them
:)

roo Hawkins
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Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 20:12
Location: Northamptonshire

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by roo Hawkins »

Terry is right glass finish is best and more hardwareing. But I have just started to use vinyl that is used on signs. It is cheaper than profile at £ 9 for 5 meters and is thicker. Is easy to apply but is not heat shrink. I have been very pleased with the finish and has been harder wareing than film. Brian Sharp has used it for is pt asw20 and I think he was also pleased with it. ROO :D

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Peter Balcombe
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Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Peter Balcombe »

Martin,
I would also advise a glassed surface for use on Crook Peak and any other potential flying site which has a good dose of gorse, bramble & other spiky growth around. Rocks also seem to pop out of the ground just as you are landing!
Otherwise the outer balsa covering will be subject to local puncture/crushIng and any film type covering would allow easier penetration of the various barbs.
On top of that, any scuff marks are easily polished out or retouched.
I used lightweight (15/17gsm) cloth with Bucks Composites resin, which is dead easy to apply with a 2" foam roller as recommended in their 'how-to' guide as found on their website. I couldn't get on at all with the thicker resins available elsewhere.
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ASW20 maiden at Crook Peak
ASW20 maiden at Crook Peak

Jolly Roger
Posts: 399
Joined: 30 May 2015, 20:35
Location: Sutton Bank, North Yorkshire

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Jolly Roger »

For durability I would glass. It's a lot more work but as already said, the finish can take more knocks and if you do get a scratch it's easier to repair - with covering film you really need to recover the whole panel to avoid that naff "patched" look. It does add a little more weight, but you get the benefit of extra torsional strength too (especially if you can be bothered to lay the glass at 45 degrees, although I never have).

My PT 20 is 21 years old and still one of my faves! If I totalled mine, I'd buy another. I'm sure you'll love yours too.

Rog

P.S. Look - that glass finish is so tough you can even land it on wooden benches.
Attachments
P1120182(1).JPG

Martin Church
Posts: 74
Joined: 06 Oct 2015, 11:23
Location: Somerset edge of Mendips

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Martin Church »

Had a chat about this subject at the SWSSA event at charter house. I am going to cut the flaps & ailerons off the wing (living hinged)
I will then glass the wing as I can't see a way to go it with flaps & ailerons in situ.
Martin

Martin Church
Posts: 74
Joined: 06 Oct 2015, 11:23
Location: Somerset edge of Mendips

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Martin Church »

Both wings now finished Canopy finally glued on with impact adhesive. The horizontal tail panel seems to have enough torsional strength as it is so I will film cover that & the Rudder.
Now onto the horrible task of glassing the wings all 5 metres plus of them :(
I'm going to buy 25g sqm whing skinning cloth & a 1kg pack of EL20 slow setting epoxy from easy composites now before I order said skinning components is there anything else I will need from them?
Martin

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Peter Balcombe
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Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Peter Balcombe »

Martin
It may be worth getting in some methylated spirits to use as an epoxy thinner/cleaning agent, latex or similar gloves to minimise skin contact with the epoxy in case you are allergic/become allergic to epoxy, plus measuring cups/scales and mixing containers.
You also need something to spread the mixed epoxy onto the wing/cloth & this is probably dependent on the mixed resin viscosity.
I could never get on with the usual more viscous resins using the "credit card spreader" application method as this ends to "grab" the cloth, making for an untidy/messy covering. I have tended to use the less viscous 24/36hour cure resins from Bucks Composites. These are quite runny and are easily spread with a 2" wide roller (either hard nylon, or the standard soft foam roller that I tend to use). The foam roller generates lots of air bubbles in the epoxy, but these quickly disperse due to the low resin viscosity. It is easy to see when the cloth has been wetted out as it changes from white to clear. The foam rollers are dscarded once used as the resin cannot be/is not worth being cleaned out.
Note that the idea is to use minimum resin to avoid weight gain, whilst ensuring full wetting out of the cloth/substrate material. I usually apply a 2nd cloth weave filling coat after sanding back all excess cloth/rough edges/cloth surface using 80-240 grit. I sand the final coat using Wet & Dry (used wet), working up to 600 grit.
Also note that you will need a sharp pair of scissors/scalpel blade to cut the cloth without snagging.
A good tip is to mix up a couple of smaller resin quantities for each wing as they will not start rapidly curing in the mixing pot to the extent that larger quantities do.
Good luck. :)

Martin Church
Posts: 74
Joined: 06 Oct 2015, 11:23
Location: Somerset edge of Mendips

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Martin Church »

Cheers Pete you make it sound even worse than id imagined :(
I was even thinking of going the glosstex route?
I'm not overly worried on cost as I know it's expensive what I'm worried about is arseing up the glassing.
Martin

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