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Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Let us all watch your new project progress.
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Martin Church
Posts: 74
Joined: 06 Oct 2015, 11:23
Location: Somerset edge of Mendips

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Martin Church »

I have started to glass up the underside of the first wing panel. I originally purchased bucks composites water based system. For a sanding sealer I bought a tin of ronseal diamond hard floor paint in satin white. On having a look at the contents of the floor paint it was noted that all contents of both ronseal & bucks composites systems were identicle so I've laid up the first skin in the white.
It's very easy to apply & after the second coat you can already see how effective it is doing it this way.
It's extremely ding resistant already. I'm going to finish one panel top & bottom then try to decide if the finish will up to standard I require. If not both panels will get a profilm top coat.
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Peter Balcombe
Posts: 1097
Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Peter Balcombe »

Hi Martin. I've not tried the water based system but glad that it seems to be going ok.
I have managed to, get hold of another canopy & my AH pilot has arrived, so I may well have a go at a new cockpit with GRP frame.
Peter

Martin Church
Posts: 74
Joined: 06 Oct 2015, 11:23
Location: Somerset edge of Mendips

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Martin Church »

Feel free to document it here Pete.
I've made my frame from ply but I'm not very happy with the results.

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Peter Balcombe
Posts: 1097
Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Peter Balcombe »

Martin,
My existing canopy frame is from ply as per the original PT drawing, but even with saw cuts in the underside of the ply (filled with epoxy) to try to get the ply to conform to the canopy opening shape, it still left a gap under the ply - hence the future attempt at getting a GRP moulding to fully conform to the fuselage profile.
If the GRP works out then I will cut out the centre for the AH Designs pilot figure & also go for one of Cliff's 3D instrument panels like you have.
Peter

Martin Church
Posts: 74
Joined: 06 Oct 2015, 11:23
Location: Somerset edge of Mendips

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Martin Church »

The panel is a true work of art Pete & worth every penny.
There's no chance I could ever have got a home made one to this level of quality. 3D printing is deffinately the way ahead. Just wish I could get some 3D printed winglets :)
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Simon WS
Posts: 280
Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 11:39
Location: Kent, UK

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Simon WS »

I made 3D printed winglets for my 40% Asg29 and they turned out really well - had to make them in two parts and glue together as they were so big

Simon

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terry white
Posts: 575
Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 21:08
Location: wareham,dorset.england

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by terry white »

Hi Martin

RE the canopy frame fitment.

1) Make up the frame with the ply timber supplied and build to roughly fit the fus.
2) Not shown on the plan but will strengthen the areas considerably is to make 4 gussets where the front and rear loops meet the side frames that you are having trouble with. If you are up to making a clean cut into the frame timbers and letting the gussets into this as a housing joint it will be much stronger yet again.
3) Now the part that you are having trouble with, to make it fit to the scollop of the fus make many cuts at 12-15mm spacing's cross-ways along the INSIDE of the frame down to the last layer of ply.This will make the frame easily bend to the fus scollop.The cuts will close up allowing the bend to take shape. (If you decide to make new side frame parts make sure that the grain of the wood is in the cross direction of the frame as this will also help in the bending).
4) After giving the fus a good few polishes with a good wax polish cover the whole area of the fus cockpit opening with cling film so as to protect the fus from sticky finger prints and allow the frame to release when cured.
5) Fit the frame to the cockpit opening and hold the shape with paper clamps.(Clip board type).
6) After coating the cut area of the frame with a good quality epoxy resin letting it soak into the timber well fill the cuts made earlier with epoxy paste made from epoxy and added filler. I favor the cotton flock filler as the fibers inter-weave and make for a very strong filler.
7) When cured release from the fus, clean and make a final fitting all round, the side frame will now fit exactly to the fus when replaced.
8) Before fitting the canopy you now have a chance drill a 3/16" hole down through the center of both side frames and fus together.This for a location peg inserted into the canopy frame to locate into the hole in the fus when finished.This will stop sideways movement on the finished canopy and creep due to heat expansion when the sun warms up the inside of the canopy.
9) When it comes to fitting the canopy make the final fitting and bonding with the frame clipped to the fus as before. When cured a good bang to the fus side will jolt-release the clamps.
You should now have a good fitting canopy with location pegs inserted and strengthened at the joints. ;) Regards Terry.

Martin Church
Posts: 74
Joined: 06 Oct 2015, 11:23
Location: Somerset edge of Mendips

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Martin Church »

Cheers terry for that tip & Cliff that's an interesting idea .
Quick question, what type of winglets are on the 16.6n version? I'm guessing they are the droop down type with a wheel in them?

Martin Church
Posts: 74
Joined: 06 Oct 2015, 11:23
Location: Somerset edge of Mendips

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Martin Church »

Found a picture of a 20bl
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Peter Balcombe
Posts: 1097
Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.

Re: Teakle ASW 20 3.5/1

Post by Peter Balcombe »

Martin,
According to the Wikipedia ASW20 page, the BL &CL variants had interchangeable tips to achieve 16.59m span.
It also seems that there were 3 winglet variants.

The Martin Simons 3 view in Sailplanes 1965-2000 shows the interchangeable tips to achieve 16.59m, but without any winglet as far as I can see. Thus maybe there was a non winglet version that had a small downward tip skid like the 15m version.

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