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Bandsaw electrics

Discussion about Tx, Rx, Servo's, Batteries, Chargers, and all the other things we like to talk about..
Moderator: VinceC
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Peter Balcombe
Posts: 1399
Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.

Re: Bandsaw electrics

Post by Peter Balcombe »

Probably not unusual Mark, as the parts catalogue probably identifies the motor as lowest level replaceable part.
However, you can usually get to brushes once you have access to wiring end of motor.
Look for a pair of screwed caps or similar on opposite sides near the end of motor casing
Then a case of looking at removed brushes, or seeing if you can find a suitable replacements.

However, it seems me a funny coincidence that the brushes should go when machine asked to do some hard work - unless it has been very well used beforehand.
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Peter Balcombe
Posts: 1399
Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.

Re: Bandsaw electrics

Post by Peter Balcombe »

It may be worth taking a peek inside the control box then as I suspect it more likely that the latest bit of work has overstressed something, so there may be some evidence of a heated item in there.
You may just find a label on the motor to indicate if it is designed to run at 230v or not, with the control box reducing volts?
There may be a fuse type item inside the control box, but if the machine makes any noise when trying to run then it is more than likely trying to power the motor which fails to turn.
It’s always a problem with value items as they are built to a cost & reliability/longevity often suffers as a result.
Ok until they stop working!!
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Peter Balcombe
Posts: 1399
Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.

Re: Bandsaw electrics

Post by Peter Balcombe »

At least you are off & running again Mark, so I hope you get the model finished in time.

For others, it appears that power tools such as this bandsaw and probably bench saws, grinders etc. are fitted with Induction motors these days.
Induction motors do not have any brushes, but do have a small box or “lump” on them which is, or houses, a start/run capacitor, depending on the type & size of induction motor. The capacitor is used to create a rotating magnetic field to ‘kick’ the motor into life and if it dies then the motor will not start.
The capacitor may not have been the cause of the problem in Mark’s case, but a capacitor is usually more likely to fail than a stator winding. So, as capacitors are cheap, it’s always worth a check.
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