Old set of veenered wings

[Andy Wallace]

Guys I'm after a bit of advise
I'm building a PT-ASW 20 for a good friend and the kit is quite old
My problem is the veener has pushed up and formed long peaks and has started to let go along the leading and trailing edges
I'm sorry I've no photos as I can't get a picture good enough to highlight the problem
Is it ok to cut out the old veener and replace it with a new piece without weakening the wing

Thanks
Andrew

[roo Hawkins]

some times if you can use a warm iron but not to hot has it will melt the foam . it may make the latex glue re stick down.some times you can use a damp cloth on the wood to softn the latex glue and peel the wood back and then re glue. a good glue is evo stick solvent free. if not you may replace the veener and then glass with 25 or 50 gm glass cloth and epoxy. it is a bit hard to tell with out seeing the wings . pats wings where a bit flexy I cut mine down the spar and added a ply shear web and then glued it back together. hope that helps ROO

[Andy Wallace]

Good man Roo
Will try the hot iron
Thanks

[Peter Balcombe]

Hi Andy,
I have an ASW20 built from one of Pat's original kits.
I would go along with everything Roo says, but be sure that you do not use ordinary Evostick as the solvents will eat the foam.
The solvent free one is a must if you go down this route!!
The veneer is there to give a harder external profile and doesn't add much strength wise, so it just needs to be put back into good contact with the airfoil profiled foam cores.

Mine has been built without any additional main spar strengthening, but the finished wing is glassed with 25gsm cloth as suggested by Roo.
I have 3 servos in each wing as there is plenty of space to cut an additional flap servo hole instead of using the original fuselage torque rod idea.
I also use the MPX Unilock system for wing retention & this is fine (as long as you remember to keep the plastic wedge in your flight box as the wings are a pig to get off otherwise)