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filler
filler
hi
i’m using p-38 filler on plane , is there a way to thin it down or is it just a case of thin layers
sounds obvious now i write it , but just wondering if anyone has any tricks ?
have put on a bit thick so just lots of rubbing down
any advice would be great as never used before
mick
i’m using p-38 filler on plane , is there a way to thin it down or is it just a case of thin layers
sounds obvious now i write it , but just wondering if anyone has any tricks ?
have put on a bit thick so just lots of rubbing down
any advice would be great as never used before
mick
- chris williams
- Posts: 1569
- Joined: 10 Mar 2015, 10:50
- Location: Blandford Dorset
Re: filler
Which parts of the glider are you filling, Mick...?
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- Posts: 557
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 20:12
- Location: Northamptonshire
Re: filler
you can get a filler called 2k stopper it is for filling fine marks on car body work. it can be layered very thinly it is like a cream but it is around £20 a tin . a good one is called topstop I think it is made by upol. you can get it off ebay or car paint facters.
Re: filler
I use West 410 Microlight mixed into epoxy resin to a pretty stiff but still sticky consistency. Not the cheapest but probably about the lightest - it floats. There also used to be (maybe still available) a spray filler , I think, called Featherlight. I came across it when a friend resprayed his full-size plane.
Mark
Mark
Re: filler
hi
thanks for messages
i’m filling in the front part of the fuse ( the 1.5 mm planking )
started well , and then rushed it and put on too thick , just a lot of sanding
i’m using p-38 , think will just have to put light skim on and sand in between .
seem to have lumps and bumps at moment
just think i like giving myself work !!
thanks for messages
i’m filling in the front part of the fuse ( the 1.5 mm planking )
started well , and then rushed it and put on too thick , just a lot of sanding
i’m using p-38 , think will just have to put light skim on and sand in between .
seem to have lumps and bumps at moment
just think i like giving myself work !!
- chris williams
- Posts: 1569
- Joined: 10 Mar 2015, 10:50
- Location: Blandford Dorset
Re: filler
I seem to remember that P48 was one of the harder fillers to block down... For years I've used Upol's Easy 1. The trick, however, is to do this:
First, make sure you use a proper plastic spreader: this will allow you to apply the filler following the vertical curve of the fuselage. Having applied the first coat, wait until it's just gone past the 'cheesy' stage and block it down with 40 grit whilst it is not quite fully cured. (Not too soon, you'll just rip it off. The timing depends on the ambient temperature and the amount of hardener you have used) Once it has cured, and the desired shape has been roughly achieved, apply another layer, wait for it to go off properly, and then block it with 80 grit. Depending on how you decide to finish the fuselage, a polyester stopper shouldn't be necessary, unless you plan to use 1K primer and paint directly over the filler.
My preferred method is to Solartex the fuselage and brush over the edges with 2K primer, subsequently flatting it dry with 180, followed by 320 grit, before priming and final painting...
First, make sure you use a proper plastic spreader: this will allow you to apply the filler following the vertical curve of the fuselage. Having applied the first coat, wait until it's just gone past the 'cheesy' stage and block it down with 40 grit whilst it is not quite fully cured. (Not too soon, you'll just rip it off. The timing depends on the ambient temperature and the amount of hardener you have used) Once it has cured, and the desired shape has been roughly achieved, apply another layer, wait for it to go off properly, and then block it with 80 grit. Depending on how you decide to finish the fuselage, a polyester stopper shouldn't be necessary, unless you plan to use 1K primer and paint directly over the filler.
My preferred method is to Solartex the fuselage and brush over the edges with 2K primer, subsequently flatting it dry with 180, followed by 320 grit, before priming and final painting...
Re: filler
thanks chris
i was using p-38 is that same thing ?
it’s easy to sand once dry , i think i tried when was still too wet as ripped chunks out of it
was going to fill as you did on your build then either diacov as can’t get solartex or light fibreglass , or even just resin and then paint with auto paint - will have to be rattle can -
i can get 2k in can , so might try that
think it just needs a good dose of elbow grease
mick
i was using p-38 is that same thing ?
it’s easy to sand once dry , i think i tried when was still too wet as ripped chunks out of it
was going to fill as you did on your build then either diacov as can’t get solartex or light fibreglass , or even just resin and then paint with auto paint - will have to be rattle can -
i can get 2k in can , so might try that
think it just needs a good dose of elbow grease
mick
- chris williams
- Posts: 1569
- Joined: 10 Mar 2015, 10:50
- Location: Blandford Dorset
Re: filler
So long since I used it I can't remember the number!
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- Posts: 134
- Joined: 24 Apr 2015, 12:15
- Location: Rugeley
Re: filler
Hi Mick, you can "water down" P38 filler with cellulose thinners. Thin it down before adding the hardener though.
- Ian Davis
- Posts: 162
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 12:33
- Location: Bishopstoke UK
Re: filler
Hi Catwok
Thanks so much for that tip. Worked like a dream.
Ian
Thanks so much for that tip. Worked like a dream.
Ian