Glue - CA vs PVA vs Epoxy vs ?

[mjcp]

As per the title...

What's the thoughts on glue for ply / balsa wood builds? I have seen build threads use both CA and PVA style glues (not sure if they are aliphatic).

I'm failure with wood glues in my woodworking side hobby and CA / Epoxy for day to day stuff and field repairs.

From a speed view, CA would be preferred, but is it strong enough?

(kit is one of LCS's 3m short kits)

M

[Peter Balcombe]

M,
As far as I am aware, PVA glue tends to be white & dries with a slightly rubbery finish which can make sanding of glued joints a bit tricky. Thus I tend to use Aliphatic (often a light yellow in the bottle) which dries hard & can easily be sanded.
PVA is still very useful though - particularly for use in applying sheeting with the ‘ironing’ method to reactivate the dried glue on each surface, or where wood joints which will not be sanded later.
Personally, I only use Cyano where I need very fast ‘grab’ or for strengthening a wood joint.
I use epoxy where I need particular strength in the joint e.g. bonding joiner boxes to spars.

Each builder will tend to have their favourite materials & methods.

[Trevor]

I’m with Peter on this. PVA for most internal work (it’s cheaper than aliphatic!) and Aliphatic for joining sheeting, planking etc. Cyano can be used as an alternative to pins to hold parts in place while the sets. I only use the odourless sort though which is thicker and slower than regular CA so this method may not work with regular CA.

Epoxy only when absolutely necessary - joiner boxes are a good example. I do also use it for hinges and control surface horns too.

[IanT-White]

I like to use as much as possible Evo stik resin W exterior grade pva ( in the blue tube ), can be bought in 1 litre bottles from Screwfix for about a tenner .
Slight flexibility an advantage , I find close fitting joints stronger ( and lighter )
I have my non glider ! half size 1913 Sopwith Tabloid biplane glued with the above glue which I still fly , now in its 30th year.
The joints between the ribs and spars etc still really sound after all those years , especially when you consider the wings are twisted in flight with the scale wing warping control .
I tend to avoid using cyno , irritates my eyes .

[John Vella]

I agree with all that has been said. I would like to add that as well as PVA Aliphatic resin can also be used in reactivated dried glue joints in ironing on ply sheeting in jobs that have a feathered edge sanded into balsa e.g. wing tips. Regards John.

[mjcp]

Thanks all... Feels like PVA and PVA resin is the way to go ... I'll just need to be a little more patient!

Cheers!
Marc

[Jolly Roger]

Hope you don't mind me jumping in here. I know this is not relevant to your woodworking question but it does fit with your title...

What are people's experiences with SILICONE as an adhesive?

I used some last night to glue some LiPo trays into the base of a GRP fuselage because I wanted a little flexibility and there was plenty of mating surface area. I was worried that epoxy would be too brittle and that the flex of a fuselage floor on landing would crack an epoxy join, especially with the weight of the LiPo (500g).

Silicone takes a while to set but seems to have worked a treat - strong but with a little flexibility.

[Barry_Cole]

It's great. I have been using it for years.

[terry white]

Yep, terrific stuff used in the right places. Ideal for most things you would stick into the front end of a fus including batteries and lead weight. It also allows one to remove them quite easily if required.
Also stops my bath from falling off the wall.

[manolo]

And what to use to glue the domes of the booths? Thanks