I need to replace the damaged canopy on my 5m Ventus 2ax and unfortunately Sarik don't have a plug for it. Is there anywhere else that I might be able to obtain one? My only other option I guess is to make a plug but seeing as that's quite a bit of work I thought I'd see if anybody has any better suggestions.
Rob
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Ventus canopy needed
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Chris Bowles
- Posts: 92
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 16:12
- Location: South Devon
Re: Ventus canopy needed
Hi Rob, Mibo models might be able to help you, I got one for my Ventus from them, not cheap but very quick delivery
Chris
Chris
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terry white
- Posts: 508
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 21:08
- Location: wareham,dorset.england
Re: Ventus canopy needed
Hi Rob, I have a meeting arranged with Barry of Sarik next week. If you could supply me with all the info of your canopy requirements such as total length x width x and height when placed on the bench including any parts you have left from the old canopy. Along with my knowledge of the shape of the Ventus I could try and match it with any other bubbles he may have which will fit.
We have found in the past that the large and long P.T. Vega canopy or our Purbeck DG800 will fit quite a number of different styles of models depending on where one cuts from the bubble. If this helps. Ter
We have found in the past that the large and long P.T. Vega canopy or our Purbeck DG800 will fit quite a number of different styles of models depending on where one cuts from the bubble. If this helps. Ter
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Chris Bowles
- Posts: 92
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 16:12
- Location: South Devon
Re: Ventus canopy needed
Rob, Terry, when I was looking for a canopy for my Ventus, I got in touch with Cliff E, to see about getting one, I give Cliff my sizes, he was going to see Barry at Sarik, but Barry had nothing that would fit, the Ventus has quite a long canopy, you might be lucky
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terry white
- Posts: 508
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 21:08
- Location: wareham,dorset.england
Re: Ventus canopy needed
O.K. guys didn't know you had already closed that avenue.
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robc
- Posts: 23
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 07:21
- Location: Wakefield
Re: Ventus canopy needed
Is there a "standard" plug construction that Sarik would need if I were to make one and send it to them?
Once I've got the plug made then I may have a go at vac forming a canopy myself, although I suspect it would be a bit of a dog's dinner!
Once I've got the plug made then I may have a go at vac forming a canopy myself, although I suspect it would be a bit of a dog's dinner!
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terry white
- Posts: 508
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 21:08
- Location: wareham,dorset.england
Re: Ventus canopy needed
Rob, have you got the old canopy ,even if it is broken that you can use as a starter for ten?
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robc
- Posts: 23
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 07:21
- Location: Wakefield
Re: Ventus canopy needed
The damaged canopy isn't too bad so I taped it up to use as a reference for the plug I'm making. I also took a mould off it this weekend but it's not great so I'm focussing on the plug instead, which is turning out to be easier than I thought to make.
Rob
Rob
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terry white
- Posts: 508
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 21:08
- Location: wareham,dorset.england
Re: Ventus canopy needed
Hi Rob,
It may be too late for you now however If you have the old but broken mold,Polish the inside well with silicone polish as a release agent, Then after taping it together and adding some scraps of acetate to extend the sides of the upturned and supported mold. Fill it with a molding material such as plaster of Paris. Although there are better materials on the market for this Rolly of the former Sarik Vac form would often pull a plug from Plaster of Paris and I believe it would be O.K. for just for one or two. P of P is readily available and very cheap from chemist etc. A call to Barry would find what he recommends.
Knock a thin mixture up so as to do the job in three pours. It goes off very quick so only mix enough for that one third.This because a full pour will get too hot through exothermic reaction and may distort the canopy you are using as a mold.
Being careful not to trap too much air into the mixture pour the following third directly on top of the setting third as soon as it has set and cooled so that a good bond will be had between them.
It is a good idea to use a vibrating surface such as a top of a spin dryer spinning as you pour.This allows the air which has been inevitably trapped in the mixture to vibrate to the surface and out.Another reason to use a thin mixture, for air dispersal.
When completely set the following day or two, pop it out of the mold and mount it on a block of 1" ply the same shape and dimensions as the foot of your mold.( you are looking for a flat foot to the canopy mold when placed the right way up) This extra depth is so that the pulled bubble will be deeper then the canopy required and can be cut back to fit.
Any marks on the mold left by the broken parts of the old canopy can be carefully rubbed off with 'DRY FINE' glass paper and polished
This is a very easy task to do believe me, it takes as long to write as it does to do the job.
Parcel it up and send to Barry at Sarik. He will then have it on hand for next time.
Regards Ter.
It may be too late for you now however If you have the old but broken mold,Polish the inside well with silicone polish as a release agent, Then after taping it together and adding some scraps of acetate to extend the sides of the upturned and supported mold. Fill it with a molding material such as plaster of Paris. Although there are better materials on the market for this Rolly of the former Sarik Vac form would often pull a plug from Plaster of Paris and I believe it would be O.K. for just for one or two. P of P is readily available and very cheap from chemist etc. A call to Barry would find what he recommends.
Knock a thin mixture up so as to do the job in three pours. It goes off very quick so only mix enough for that one third.This because a full pour will get too hot through exothermic reaction and may distort the canopy you are using as a mold.
Being careful not to trap too much air into the mixture pour the following third directly on top of the setting third as soon as it has set and cooled so that a good bond will be had between them.
It is a good idea to use a vibrating surface such as a top of a spin dryer spinning as you pour.This allows the air which has been inevitably trapped in the mixture to vibrate to the surface and out.Another reason to use a thin mixture, for air dispersal.
When completely set the following day or two, pop it out of the mold and mount it on a block of 1" ply the same shape and dimensions as the foot of your mold.( you are looking for a flat foot to the canopy mold when placed the right way up) This extra depth is so that the pulled bubble will be deeper then the canopy required and can be cut back to fit.
Any marks on the mold left by the broken parts of the old canopy can be carefully rubbed off with 'DRY FINE' glass paper and polished
This is a very easy task to do believe me, it takes as long to write as it does to do the job.
Parcel it up and send to Barry at Sarik. He will then have it on hand for next time.
Regards Ter.