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Fuselage wing joiner tubes info please
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roo Hawkins
- Posts: 557
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 20:12
- Location: Northamptonshire
Re: Fuselage wing joiner tubes info please
Two carbon tubes for my pt asw 20 build. One at 16mm for the wings and the other one 14mm for the joiner. The 16mm will have a 12mm stainless rod glued inside. Both tubes are gloss and have no slop at all. The tube is about £6 to £7 each.
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roo Hawkins
- Posts: 557
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 20:12
- Location: Northamptonshire
Re: Fuselage wing joiner tubes info please
Two carbon tubes for my pt asw 20 build. One at 16mm for the wings and the other one 14mm for the joiner. The 16mm will have a 12mm stainless rod glued inside. Both tubes are gloss and have no slop at all. The tube is about £6 to £7 each. The bottom picture is from my asw 27 and has a steel rod glued in 1 in from the end.
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Barry_Cole
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Dave Cooper
- Posts: 47
- Joined: 26 Sep 2018, 10:42
- Location: South Cotswolds
Re: Fuselage wing joiner tubes info please
I think there are many things to consider here - wing span, loading, depth of tube penetration, slider fit, fuselage interface etc. etc.
On my little Capstan for instance, I use solid steel rod in a brass tube with a penetration of about 30% span. When the wings are slid on, and locked-in, there is slight anhedral. However, under flying loads this converts to approx. 2 deg's of dihedral. Whilst I wouldn't necessarily recommend this approach for an aerobatic model (high 'g' loadings), I think it is ok for a small, gentle scale soarer.
Also, in the event of a mis-hap, what do you want to 'let go' first. In my case it should be one (or more) of the nylon securing bolts that lock wing to joiner box and turtle deck to fus' (ie a 2-axis fixing). A steel rod would probably also be bent if it cartwheeled in. After that, it would most likely be partial (or total) wing failure - foam veneer construction. So, I'll carry spare joiner rods and nylon bolts just in case. Inside the turtle deck, the wing halves are also sprung together with a short tension spring which will also have some 'give'.
Due for a maiden soon, so then we find out if the above theories hold water !
Dave
On my little Capstan for instance, I use solid steel rod in a brass tube with a penetration of about 30% span. When the wings are slid on, and locked-in, there is slight anhedral. However, under flying loads this converts to approx. 2 deg's of dihedral. Whilst I wouldn't necessarily recommend this approach for an aerobatic model (high 'g' loadings), I think it is ok for a small, gentle scale soarer.
Also, in the event of a mis-hap, what do you want to 'let go' first. In my case it should be one (or more) of the nylon securing bolts that lock wing to joiner box and turtle deck to fus' (ie a 2-axis fixing). A steel rod would probably also be bent if it cartwheeled in. After that, it would most likely be partial (or total) wing failure - foam veneer construction. So, I'll carry spare joiner rods and nylon bolts just in case. Inside the turtle deck, the wing halves are also sprung together with a short tension spring which will also have some 'give'.
Due for a maiden soon, so then we find out if the above theories hold water !
Dave