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SF33 1/6 scale

Fans and Thermals.
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Steve Naidamast
Posts: 22
Joined: 25 Jun 2021, 17:51
Location: New York, USA

Re: SF33 1/6 scale

Post by Steve Naidamast »

Hi Peter...

Just to confirm then, angle both wing rib #1s (root ribs) to an inner 16 degree angle?

Thank you...

Steve
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Peter Balcombe
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Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.

Re: SF33 1/6 scale

Post by Peter Balcombe »

Steve,
You certainly need to do something very similar for both wings, but the essential point is that both wings need to nicely mate with the fuselage when attached by joiner the system, which I think from memory was a 8mm or so carbon main joiner rod forward & probably a 3mm or so rear incidence rod.
If the main joiner isn’t at a right angle to the fuselage centreline, or the fuselage side curvature is not identical, then the wing root angles won’t be identical.

If you have already fixed the main joiner in place (hopefully square to the fuselage centreline & horizontal with the fuselage flat on the table) then temporarily rig the partially built wings to the fuselage & see how each wing looks.
You can always use this dry assembly to see how each root rib needs to be setup to match the fuselage.
Peter
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Steve Naidamast
Posts: 22
Joined: 25 Jun 2021, 17:51
Location: New York, USA

Re: SF33 1/6 scale

Post by Steve Naidamast »

Peter...

Thank you for confirming the need to angle both wing root ribs.

I have yet to glue the wing root rib to my left wing, which is the one currently being worked on. But all the other ribs are now set so I can begin to add the front and rear rib strengtheners, which should be rather straight forward.

I have never done any rod bending or the like. Are there any services that you know of that can do this for me with the appropriate tubing?

Thank you again...

Steve
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Peter Balcombe
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Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.

Re: SF33 1/6 scale

Post by Peter Balcombe »

Steve,
What size rod/tube are you talking about.
If you need fairly tight bends in smallish gauge wire, up to 3/32” or so, then holding the wire in a metal vice & tapping the wire slowly around the end of the jaw (hitting fairly close to the bend) should work.

There are a couple of wire benders (Mini & Mighty wire benders), both made by K&S I think. These are intended for cold forming a range of piano wire type rod sizes from small angles to multi turn spring type configurations. I attach a copy of the Mini wire bender instructions, but basically the tool uses a lever to bend wire around a hardened pin.

You can also get a Z bend tool which is essentially a large set of pliers with a Z shaped jaw. (I find the Z a bit big).

Tubes are a bit more tricky as unless you are very careful, bends will cause the tube to kink rather than bend. You can get ‘bending springs’ which you slide over the tube & support it along it length during the bend, but these are normally for larger diameters (like 1/2” copper water pipe). If you want a bend in small brass tube, it’s after better to cut, or at least partially cut, & solder the joint at the required angle.

On the SF33 I don’t think there is much wire bending required other than the outrigger legs & wire pushrods which all use thin piano wire & could be done with a vice/set of pliers.
Peter
Wire Bender instructions.pdf
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Steve Naidamast
Posts: 22
Joined: 25 Jun 2021, 17:51
Location: New York, USA

Re: SF33 1/6 scale

Post by Steve Naidamast »

Peter...

I was asking about the two tubes that are installed by both wing roots. Aren't these two tubes supposed to hold metal, bent rods to connect both of the wings together in a way that allows for easier transport through the separation of both wings?

Steve
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Cliff Evans
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Re: SF33 1/6 scale

Post by Cliff Evans »

Steve, the wing joining rods are not meant to be bent as the dihedral is set by the tubes in the wings.
https://lasercutsailplanes.co.uk
https://patteaklegliders.co.uk
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Peter Balcombe
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Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.

Re: SF33 1/6 scale

Post by Peter Balcombe »

Steve,
Cliff is correct.
The first few wing ribs nearest the wing root should have holes in them between the main spars (or thereabouts) set at differing heights to set the main joiner & rear incidence tubes at the dihedral angle and set the wings at the correct angle in plan view when the wings are attached using a one-piece straight joiner from one wing, through fuselage into the other wing.
Just cut the joiner rod slightly shorter than the total length of the the fuselage width + 2x the wing tube length (similar with rear incidence rod).
Peter
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Cliff Evans
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Re: SF33 1/6 scale

Post by Cliff Evans »

I do not understand where the 16° angle is coming from!
https://lasercutsailplanes.co.uk
https://patteaklegliders.co.uk
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Steve Naidamast
Posts: 22
Joined: 25 Jun 2021, 17:51
Location: New York, USA

Re: SF33 1/6 scale

Post by Steve Naidamast »

Hi Cliff...

The 16 degree angle is shown on the plans for wing-rib #1 or the root-rib, whereby it both root ribs are angled slightly inward towards the wing tips at approximately 16 degree.

From what I could ascertain, this angling of these ribs was to provide the ability for the wings to angle slightly upwards, forming a dihedral when the wings are joined.

This is why I have been asking about the inner tubing to each of the wings. I believe Peter said that these tubes are to acommodate a straight metal rod going into each to bring the wing halves together. However, a straight rod could not fit between the two wing halves and still provide for the slight dihedral in the wings.

I will get a snapshot that part of the plant of the area on the plans I am talking about as far as the angle is concerned...

Steve
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Cliff Evans
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Joined: 29 Dec 2019, 15:13
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Re: SF33 1/6 scale

Post by Cliff Evans »

Ok, it should be a straight rod as the dihedral is set with the tubes in the wings.
https://lasercutsailplanes.co.uk
https://patteaklegliders.co.uk
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