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PIK20 rebuild
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- Posts: 187
- Joined: 26 Dec 2018, 08:45
- Location: Hungary
Re: PIK20 rebuild
Steady progress Peter, there looks to be a lot of work in those wing ribs
- Peter Balcombe
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
- Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.
- Peter Balcombe
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
- Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.
Re: PIK20 rebuild
Dummy LE & hinge spar planed/sanded flush with the ribs and the top skin applied.
Starting to look a bit more like a wing now.
Now the brake can be fitted from the top and servo hatch/cables fitted prior to adding the bottom skin.
Starting to look a bit more like a wing now.
Now the brake can be fitted from the top and servo hatch/cables fitted prior to adding the bottom skin.
- Peter Balcombe
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
- Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.
Re: PIK20 rebuild
Now with wing skins on and fitted to the fuselage using the joiner box assembly
- Peter Balcombe
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
- Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.
Re: PIK20 rebuild
Having got the wing joiners fitted, attention turns to the tail feathers & having got Cliff Evans to cut some tailplane ribs & spars for me, it’s time to start glueing them together to produce a built-up tailplane.
Basic framework now together, with 3mm Liteply hinge & Aileron LE spars, prior to fitting balsa doublers to give 6mm hinge line thicknesses.
The Aileron LE will be angled for top hinging (tape).
The square ply plate in the centre is to locate & retain the fixing bolt (packed out with balsa to the rib outer profiles before adding skins)
I will probably add the balsa top skin next in order to provide a bit more rigidity prior to fitting the spar doublers.
Basic framework now together, with 3mm Liteply hinge & Aileron LE spars, prior to fitting balsa doublers to give 6mm hinge line thicknesses.
The Aileron LE will be angled for top hinging (tape).
The square ply plate in the centre is to locate & retain the fixing bolt (packed out with balsa to the rib outer profiles before adding skins)
I will probably add the balsa top skin next in order to provide a bit more rigidity prior to fitting the spar doublers.
- Peter Balcombe
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
- Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.
Re: PIK20 rebuild
The top skins were attached as 2 pieces (partly to use up spare pieces of balsa sheet) after fitting the balsa block above the hold-down plate.
Turning the assembly over, the rib building tabs can be removed, fixing hole drilled through (using hole already in the ply plate) and then the 1/16” elevator LE spar doublers fitted behind the spar (which will be angled for down-going clearance), lower fixing plate balsa block added, plus spars sanded flush with the ribs.
Balsa infill also added in centre sections of the elevator to allow the rudder clearance cutout to be made later on.
3/16” Balsa doublers also fitted either side of the central ribs, forward of the hold-down plate, to allow for an anti-rotation peg to be fitted later.
Then, on with the bottom sheeting which is currently clamped up, using temporary spruce strips to ensure a straight TE.
Turning the assembly over, the rib building tabs can be removed, fixing hole drilled through (using hole already in the ply plate) and then the 1/16” elevator LE spar doublers fitted behind the spar (which will be angled for down-going clearance), lower fixing plate balsa block added, plus spars sanded flush with the ribs.
Balsa infill also added in centre sections of the elevator to allow the rudder clearance cutout to be made later on.
3/16” Balsa doublers also fitted either side of the central ribs, forward of the hold-down plate, to allow for an anti-rotation peg to be fitted later.
Then, on with the bottom sheeting which is currently clamped up, using temporary spruce strips to ensure a straight TE.
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- Posts: 60
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 22:49
- Location: Bracknell
Re: PIK20 rebuild
Are you modelling the tailplane as per a 'b model or a 'd model PIK?
Just asking!
Regards
Gordon
Just asking!
Regards
Gordon
- Peter Balcombe
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
- Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.
Re: PIK20 rebuild
Gordon,
Good question, but I don’t know!
I have taken the outline from a PT kit foam tailplane core.
What’s the difference between a b & d versions?
Good question, but I don’t know!
I have taken the outline from a PT kit foam tailplane core.
What’s the difference between a b & d versions?
- Peter Balcombe
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 10:13
- Location: Clevedon, North Somerset, U.K.
Re: PIK20 rebuild
With the LE, TE & tips in place, we have a complete tailplane/elevator assembly which can be test fitted to the top of the fin before the previously installed internal block is fixed back into place.
Note that this assembly is intended to be a direct replacement for the standard foam cored version.
Note that this assembly is intended to be a direct replacement for the standard foam cored version.
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- Posts: 60
- Joined: 18 Mar 2015, 22:49
- Location: Bracknell
Re: PIK20 rebuild
If the l/e of the tailplane matches with the l/e of the fin then it would be a 'b model. If l/e of tailplane overhangs the l/e of the fin by 100 mm (full size dimension) then it's a 'd. The reason for this was so that they could extent the top of the rudder upwards by a similar amount to give a bit more rudder area.
There are full size 'b fuselages with the 'd tailplane and vice versa so what ever way you do it you can call it scale!
There are full size 'b fuselages with the 'd tailplane and vice versa so what ever way you do it you can call it scale!