Scale Soaring UK

This built was started two years ago and was interupted by me becoming the club secretary. In the previous Forum I did start a built thread but will start again with what was published until then (Pdf file ) and then add pictures I took during me built restart.

fit plywood to the fuse. finish the top over the full length then take fuse from the jig and fit bottom ply sections

Thanks, If you have a problem, let me know and I will change it for you.



BC

Jilles,

When gluing with this hot pva method, if you dampen both surfaces immediately before applying the iron you get a much stronger bond.

Robbie / Jilles

Alternatively make the joint when the pva has just gone clear but before it has dried out fully.

AEB

Some random pictures of progress
Got the fuse glassed, sprayed primer filler and applied the top color on the fuse. bottom will be red
Wings and tail bits are covered with Icarex and are waiting for the paint job

Hi Jilles,

A lovely build thanks for sharing with us.

What is the advantage of putting the PVA on the wood/drying/ironing as opposed to using wet PVA and clamping?

Is glassing a compound fuselage difficult as I see the nose has not been glassed. I take it your using expoxy ?

Jus

Well done Jilles.
She is looking very nice. I look forward to seeing the finished model.

Jus

The advantage of the PVA / ironing method is that no clamping is needed at all. The bond is instant as soon as the PVA is heated by the iron and this makes it easy to cover difficult areas or tight radii where it may not be possible to easily clamp the wood whilst the glue dries.

AEB

John,

Thanks for explanation. I will try out this method in future.

Jus

Some answers on the previous posts

Glassing a compound curved fuselage is no problem if you use a low density glass fabric. For this type of job I use 18gr/m2
Using a roller as shown on previous pictures makes the job very easy. Just lay the glass on the fuse dry and spread by hand over the fuse
Then roll in the resin. Do not apply to much resin. If a glass job is done properly you will just see the weave of the fabric and that will be filled by the primer filler. The rollers are the cheapest one can get because cleaning is not economic.

For painting I use spray cans of Automotive paint. I do not have spray gear that you have to clean for half a day after use. Two packs are expensive.
With ready available spray cans you have a big choice of colors. Also I can get at the automotive outlet where I buy the cans have colors custom made in spray cans (at a price) I use an automotive filler/primer spray first and sand that as smooth as possible before applying the final coat(s)

Jilles,

Thanks for your answers.. Always appreciate tips from the pro's!

Jus

I have one spare canopy here in Brisbane and I am told the new Zealand source will do an other run to get spares for would be builders in our region
Australia post is very heavy handed in the fees to make sending canopies to Europe economical. the other way around is half the cost I hear. As Cliff mentioned they are available in the UK

Cheers

Jilles

After lots of sanding finally dared to do the paint job.
The fuse is done now including tailbits and canopy.
A member friend in my model club has a NC cutter for stick-on logo's. I used the Alexander Schleicher Logo and included the KA6E model type in the design

next project, painting the wings

Got it all completed today. only need to do the balancing act. At the moment it weighs in at 7.7 kg. I hope not to exceed the 8kg mark.
At scale 1:3 it should be fine
The COG is not far from what it should be so there is hope.

That is nice.

Very nice indeed Jilles.
Well done.
Peter

That looks splendid Jilles. Yet another model to add to my build list.
Brian.

Got finally to balance the Ka6E. During the built the nose in front of former F1 was already 90% solid lead
Only required 200 gr lead to get the C.O.G at 100mm from the LE. It may be a bit forward but this I always do for a maiden
The C.O.G was located by means of the graphical way as suggested in the Book of model Aerodynamic of Martin Simons
For those that are building the Ka6E of my plans a breakdown of the weight is included
The target of maximum 8kg flying weight was met.

Looks great!!!

Noël

Things are happening here
My local friend John has nearly finished his Ka6E. Both John's and mine were out together yesterday for on the field systems checks.
Friend Paul in Christchurch New Zealand completed his Ka6E , with the orange paint scheme

The weight of three built Ka6E models in my region vary a bit
My model is 7950 gram
My friend John 8400 gram
Friend Paul in New Zealand 8450 grams (0.4mm ply sheeting on the wings instead of 1.5mm balsa )
C.o.g 100 mm from leading edge at fuselage joint

The New Zealand built did fly last weekend and did not have any problems. Some control throws were adjusted to personal preferences. 6 flight were made on the day. The air brakes as per drawing are very effective and because they are on top and bottom do not need a trim change.
The other two models should have flown yesterday but due to bad weather it will now be next Saturday.

Below a link to a video of the Blenheim New Zealand tow event.
The Ka6E maiden is shown as well
not the best weather but lot of flying was done.

Jilles,

Nice vid - the drone footage added a different perspective - very well done.

RobbieB wrote:Jilles,

Nice vid - the drone footage added a different perspective - very well done.

I 2nd that, very nice video

Last weekend both Ka6E models one of my friend and one of myself had their maiden flights
Despite a 25-30 k/hr cross wind all went well. C.O.G at 100mm from the LE seems to be on the mark. I might add a bit more nose weight but probably fly in calmer weather first to see if it is necessary
No vices, easy on the tow, no wing drop when stalled.